| Welcome to SP! - Sign-In | Register | ||
| | |
| MbPost.com -- It's SP for Mountain Biking! | ||
|
| rpc | Nice page! | |
Voted 10/10 | Chief, This is a great page with nicely detailed beta esp. the gear. I'd like to attach your ZE page to the Arches Group on SP. That page itself is not complete but at least it provides a common list for the Arches climbs currently on SP. I think this would make the ZE page easier to find to those looking for info. Please let me know if you have objections. | |
| Posted Apr 8, 2006 12:01 am | ||
 | ||
| The Chief | Re: Nice page! | |
Hasn't voted | Help yourself! As long as this helps save the Tower from any more abuse, by all means. IT GOES CLEAN SO KEEP THE PINS IN THE CAR. OH, and Thanks. Got more in the works. | |
| Posted Apr 8, 2006 2:07 am | ||
| ||
| rpc | Re: Nice page! | |
Voted 10/10 | Thanks & done. This is a nice TR from ZE if you want to add a link under "External Links" Chief: http://www.piquaclimber.com/past/towerofbabel/towerofbabel.htm rpc | |
| Posted Apr 10, 2006 10:32 pm | ||
| ||
| The Chief | Re: Nice page! | |
Hasn't voted | HOOYAA! Thanks for the TR and have posted it. | |
| Posted Apr 10, 2006 11:21 pm | ||
| Craig Peer | I agree | |
Voted 10/10 | A great page Chief. Thanks for posting this. | |
| Posted Apr 8, 2006 12:20 am | ||
| ||
| The Chief | Re: I agree | |
Hasn't voted | Thanks Craig. I think you would really love this route. The views are great and it is in one of the most beautiful spots on this planet. I have been previlaged to play on it six times, twice solo. It is one of the best! | |
| Posted Apr 8, 2006 2:09 am | ||
| tradclimbinfool | Gear | |
Hasn't voted | A couple of things about gear. I can't imagine where or why you would want to use camhooks on this soft route. I will say however, that the one piece that I thought saved my butt on the roof pitch was the small Lowe-ball. Oh, and one other thing--the corner crack on the third pitch is always smaller than I remember it. Whereas you describe it as 1.5", it really starts out closer to .75" and slowly widens as you ascend it. Last time I climbed it I had taken extra #1 and #2 camalots for that pitch only to find out that they were too big! I ended up having to leapfrog a .75 and an alien that was damn near tipped out! | |
| Posted Mar 16, 2007 2:07 pm | ||
| ||
| The Chief | Re: Gear | |
Hasn't voted | Hmmm... used two Large Size CAM HOOKS on P-2 off the stance for 20' or so and then off P-3 on the RT facing flake that got you onto the two BEAK HOLE TRAVERSE, when I solo'd the route back in '98. The 1/4" seam off of P-2 was very sadly a 1" blown out travesty two years later when we re-climbed this amazing route in 5 hours. | |
| Posted Mar 20, 2007 10:23 pm | ||
| colbyjw | Cam Hooks? | |
Hasn't voted | Cam hooks = clean climbing on soft sandstone? From what I've been cautioned (mostly with regard to Zion), cam hooks are excellent for granite but will ultimately blow out placements rendering them more unusable than regular pin scars in sandstone. To quote Middendorf at bigwalls.net, " Using cam hooks on sandstone trade routes is generally considered poor form." | |
| Posted Sep 23, 2008 5:30 pm | ||
| ||
| The Chief | Re: Cam Hooks? | |
Hasn't voted | Ed Leeper originally designed them for use in "Hard" SS pin scars. Another factor is the manner/technique that they are used. Of course, any "Newbie" will blow out delicate rock, regardless of density. That is a given. Besides, when I worked on Clean Aiding ZE in the mid 90's, it wasn't even close to being a "Trade Route". At that time, there weren't more than 20 or so ascents on the route and all the pin scars on P2 & P3 were "rock" solid. | |
| Posted Sep 24, 2008 12:30 pm | ||
| ||
| colbyjw | Re: Cam Hooks? | |
Hasn't voted | Sorry Chief. I hope my reply did not come across as antagonistic. I certainly do not mean to criticize you as a "Newbie." Also I try not overlay modern ethics regarding popular climbs onto the past. I guess I was just trying to place a Caveat next to the use of cam hooks in sandstone. The internet is a difficult venue to convey meaning, especially when everybody can be a critic. | |
| Posted Mar 27, 2009 12:31 pm | ||
|
