I just climbed this over the weekend, led all pitches. It took 6 pitches on a 50m rope, all but one of them full-length. This might vary depending on where you start the climb, as it seemed there may have been options to get on the route earlier or later than we did.
I don't think rock shoes are necessary for this. I was wearing my 3-season mountaineering boots and never once wished I had put my rock shoes on, though I had them with me the whole climb. By the way I can lead 5.8 on a good day so if I can lead it without rock shoes, most trad leaders should be able to as well.
What I do wish I had was a bit more pro! Many of the horns I found were difficult to sling in ways that they'd hold under the anticipated fall forces. I brought a set of small nuts and used them a few times, but I wish I'd brought my C3s and maybe a .3 and .4 Camalot. Usually I just ran it out, placing only 3-4 times over 40+m, because the climbing was so easy.
One last note: on a crowded weekend I think there were only two groups doing this climb including us. The vast majority of the parties up there were sticking to the gully.
benroberts - Aug 3, 2015 6:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Length, shoes & proI just climbed this over the weekend, led all pitches. It took 6 pitches on a 50m rope, all but one of them full-length. This might vary depending on where you start the climb, as it seemed there may have been options to get on the route earlier or later than we did.
I don't think rock shoes are necessary for this. I was wearing my 3-season mountaineering boots and never once wished I had put my rock shoes on, though I had them with me the whole climb. By the way I can lead 5.8 on a good day so if I can lead it without rock shoes, most trad leaders should be able to as well.
What I do wish I had was a bit more pro! Many of the horns I found were difficult to sling in ways that they'd hold under the anticipated fall forces. I brought a set of small nuts and used them a few times, but I wish I'd brought my C3s and maybe a .3 and .4 Camalot. Usually I just ran it out, placing only 3-4 times over 40+m, because the climbing was so easy.
One last note: on a crowded weekend I think there were only two groups doing this climb including us. The vast majority of the parties up there were sticking to the gully.