Gletschhorn South Ridge Additions and Corrections

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Moni

Moni - Aug 3, 2010 5:02 am - Hasn't voted

Guidebook clarification

Gletschhorn is described in the old edition of Plasier WEST (page 245). It is not in the current edition of West, and it is not in the old edition of East. It was moved to the new edition of Plaisir East.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Aug 6, 2010 5:31 am - Voted 10/10

Fixed protection

In 2009, bolts were placed along this route. There is a topo in the hut showing the pitches and placements. It is interesting that the pitches are all rated harder on this topo than in the climbing guides. It indicates several pitches of V.

In my opinion, the topo overrates the climbing - it is actually as described in the climbing guides - mostly III to III+ with perhaps one pitch of IV or IV+.

Also, some of the belay stances are poorly located in uncomfortable spots. We made our own on many pitches.

Bart

Bart - Aug 21, 2010 5:34 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Fixed protection

Hey Moni and Fred,

Thanks for the heads-up! I was in the AlbertHeim hut this summer and also saw the new topo. I changed the relevant info on the South Ridge page.

Bart

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