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Misunderstanding, 5.9, 2 Pitches Comments

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The ChiefFun Route...

Voted 10/10

Did the first Pitch and then went right and got onto Swain's "Misconception" 5.10ish face sport/trad mixed.
Posted Aug 28, 2007 9:57 pm

rpcRe: Fun Route...

Hasn't voted

sorry Chief - somehow I missed your comment.

do you by chance have any info. on pitches of this thing above pitch 2? One of the guidebooks mentions that FAists continued up but encountered crap rock (and either bailed or it hasn't seen many repeats - I don't remember).
Posted Feb 1, 2008 12:10 am

The ChiefRe: Fun Route...

Voted 10/10

Oh it's shit rock alright! Swain stopped drilling bolts and bailed with absolutely no mention of that when I did it. It was scary and down right dangerous past the fourth and last bolt. I kept looking for the next bolt and ended up running it out 30' before I placed a #12 Stopper and realized what Swain had done. I fixed two more Stoppers and lowered off. Never went back. That was in Oct of '95. Since then I have had a very bad taste in my mouth for Swain's route discription and FA's.
Posted Feb 1, 2008 12:28 pm

rpcRe: Fun Route...

Hasn't voted

":I kept looking for the next bolt and ended up running it out 30' "

the scenario of my nightmares - effing myself into a dead end on something that I cannot downclimb! Thank you for the info. Chief!

By the way, do you have any pic's you could post up here from your BV Wall climbs (esp. stuff deeper in the canyon, beyond Epi.)? Would be great to see.
Posted Feb 1, 2008 1:18 pm

The ChiefRe: Fun Route...

Voted 10/10

"Chief! By the way, do you have any pic's you could post up here from your BV Wall climbs (esp. stuff deeper in the canyon, beyond Epi.)? Would be great to see."

Let me work on that. Will have to do some scanning of hard copies.
Posted Feb 1, 2008 1:34 pm

rpcRe: Fun Route...

Hasn't voted

thanks Chief! will postem the up front on BV page once you getem in.
Posted Feb 1, 2008 2:22 pm

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