| Welcome to SP! - Sign-In | Register | ||
| | |
| MbPost.com -- It's SP for Mountain Biking! | ||
|
| lisae | Pitches | |
Hasn't voted | I wonder about your use of the term 'pitch,' and think you are using pitch to describe sections of the climb. Normally a pitch would refer to the section climbed until you stop and build an anchor, more or less a single rope length. As you can top rope this climb, I would assume it is one pitch. | |
| Posted May 9, 2007 6:08 pm | ||
 | ||
| Bob Sihler | Re: Pitches | |
Hasn't voted | You're right, Lisa, and thanks for being so nice in the way you pointed out my limited understanding. Going by mountaineering guidebooks that talked of ratings being based on their hardest pitches, I assumed that meant a particular section or move. I'll be working on some pages now to change that misused term. Thanks again. | |
| Posted May 9, 2007 8:28 pm | ||
| ||
| lisae | Helpful Book | |
Hasn't voted | You might want to read "Traditional Lead Climbing: Surviving the Learning Years," by Heide Pesterfield. It provides clear explanations about trad climbing. I strongly suspect that you have spent so much time scrambling on rocks that you would adapt very quickly to technical (ie with a rope) climbing. | |
| Posted May 9, 2007 9:43 pm | ||
| ||
| Bob Sihler | Re: Helpful Book | |
Hasn't voted | Again, thank you, Lisa. I was actually going to ask you if you could recommend a book that would explain the jargon associated with roped climbing-- definitions of moves, types of equipment, etc. I do need to learn, but the problem is that I really don't have someone to climb or hike with on a regular basis, and it's supposed to be really inconvenient to climb with rope solo. But maybe that's what I need to learn to do, and maybe I can swallow a little pride, shell out a few bucks, and sit in a class with people who are totally new to climbing so I can learn some knots, belaying techniques, etc. I'm comfortable free soloing many 5.4 routes I've seen in person, and I've recently pulled off a 5.5 and even a 5.6 unroped, though neither was as hard, in my opinion, as some of the 5.4 ones I've done. But it's very frustrating seeing other climbs I know I can do ability-wise but which are terribly unwise to do unroped, and therefore having to pass on them. So something's got to give, and I doubt it will be the rock (hope not)! Thanks again for the advice. Bob | |
| Posted May 10, 2007 5:49 pm | ||
| ||
| Bob Sihler | Clarification | |
Hasn't voted | When I say "climbs I know I can do ability-wise," I mean ones in the 5.7-5.8 range, maybe 5.9, I could do if I had the protection of the rope, and that's based on my own studying of the routes. I'm not trying to claim I'd be scooting up 5.10's if I only didn't have to worry about falling off! And the 5.12 routes I've seen? I can't imagine how anyone could climb them! | |
| Posted May 10, 2007 6:02 pm | ||
| ||
| lisae | Classes | |
Hasn't voted | Taking a class is a good idea as you are new to technical climbing. I don't really get where pride is involved. Anyway, it is a good way to meet potential partners. Before you learn to rope solo, I think you need to have a very good grasp of trad climbing, how to place gear, build anchors, etc. | |
| Posted May 10, 2007 7:50 pm | ||
| ||
| Bob Sihler | Re: Classes | |
Hasn't voted | I started looking into classes last night. There are some taught at Great Falls, which is very convenient since it's just a 15-20-minute drive for me. And about the pride thing-- I don't mean to imply that I'm too proud to submit to instruction. Not wanting to learn from others who know more than you do is not only stupid but also dangerous. What I mean is that since I've seen the classes being taught on routes I've climbed unroped, I'm going to find the roped climbing there dull, and others in the class may be complete novices to rock climbing, which could give the session a patronizing feel (I've often seen the utterly bored expressions on the faces of the instructors out there). But the purpose will be to learn about the rope and placing the gear, and that's what I want to get from a class. I also don't have any illusions about taking a class in the morning and leading routes that afternoon! But I do expect to learn what will be necessary for solo leading so that I can then practice with a partner (my young, enthusiastic brother comes to mind as a good victim) before trying it on my own. That's all. Thanks again for all the correspondence and advice. Bob | |
| Posted May 11, 2007 7:47 am | ||
| ||
| lisae | Re: Classes | |
Hasn't voted | Okay, I get what you are saying. one last thought, you (and maybe your brother) might want to hire a guide, ie private classes. More expensive, but also more effective as the instruction is targeted to your abilities. | |
| Posted May 11, 2007 9:17 am | ||
| ||
| Bob Sihler | Re: Classes | |
Hasn't voted | Good idea-- I hadn't thought of that. Thanks. | |
| Posted May 11, 2007 1:52 pm | ||
|
