Don't use this description, use the one on MountainProject instead. This one has several errors that I will attempt to correct, but really just needs to be completely rewritten.
* You should not approach via Field's Chimney. Approach via the North Chimney if coming from Chasm Lake. Alternately, rappel to Broadway from Chasm View. The choice is dependent on your descent strategy and how much stuff you want to carry with you.
* The point you want to begin traversing left on the 5.9 crack is where you encounter the second fixed piton. You traverse almost straight left, do not get suckered up to a set of bail slings, this would become solid 5.10 territory.
* The sustained 5.8 corner is a full 60m rope length and is sustained 5.8+. This pitch feels harder than the previous 5.9 section.
* Your descent options are to top out on Longs and descend Keyhole or North Face (Cables), hike down the Boulderfield if you have everything with you or descend the Camel to get to Chasm Lake. Alternately you can rappel the D7 rappels which can be hard to find sometimes. Know your descent well.
cushman - Sep 8, 2009 1:35 pm - Voted 10/10
Description better on MP.comDon't use this description, use the one on MountainProject instead. This one has several errors that I will attempt to correct, but really just needs to be completely rewritten.
* You should not approach via Field's Chimney. Approach via the North Chimney if coming from Chasm Lake. Alternately, rappel to Broadway from Chasm View. The choice is dependent on your descent strategy and how much stuff you want to carry with you.
* The point you want to begin traversing left on the 5.9 crack is where you encounter the second fixed piton. You traverse almost straight left, do not get suckered up to a set of bail slings, this would become solid 5.10 territory.
* The sustained 5.8 corner is a full 60m rope length and is sustained 5.8+. This pitch feels harder than the previous 5.9 section.
* Your descent options are to top out on Longs and descend Keyhole or North Face (Cables), hike down the Boulderfield if you have everything with you or descend the Camel to get to Chasm Lake. Alternately you can rappel the D7 rappels which can be hard to find sometimes. Know your descent well.