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Archimedes (Pixari) Additions and Corrections

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meglaThe few rings!

Voted 10/10

The climbing ethics are similar to those in Saxonia where, since the rock is quite fragile sandstone, the cams are forbidden. The climber stuffs rope knots into the cracks as pro, and aims for the next ring 15 m higher. I was told that no protection is used in chimneys up to UIAA IV. Decent.
Posted Mar 24, 2009 8:34 am

rpcRe: The few rings!

Hasn't voted

Borut, are you sure about "forbidden" (discouraged perhaps on most routes, no?).... Greek climbers posting beta pages here also incl. a couple cams under gear. On this particular route they really don't help where it counts anyway. Also, if minimizing traffic on routes is important here, I'd be happy to take the page off of SP - I really don't care & I'm OK with whatever Meteora regulars on SP decide (I already enjoyed the route & don't need more beta :). As a side note, I would prefer not to fall on any trad gear placed in Meteora rock, that is for sure. Let me know your thoughts - we can also ask the Meteora page owner for opinion as well. Again, I'm OK either way. Cheers.
Posted Mar 24, 2009 11:57 am

meglaRe: The few rings!

Voted 10/10

I'll read the Meteora page another time.
The "forbidden" part I mention concerns Saxonia, not Greece.
As I have it, it was east german climbers which gave the ethics to the first climbs in or around Meteora. Since they were used to protect routes every 15m, they conserved the same (of course very useful) way of climbing.
Damn I got to work on my language and make it clearer. Excuse me for bringing the comment off topic.
Cheers.

Posted Mar 24, 2009 1:50 pm

rpcRe: The few rings!

Hasn't voted

Borut - no problem, input is appreciated (that's what that "corrections" option is for). Sorry if I misunderstood. But I really am willing to give the page to someone more local if it makes sense. Good climbing to you Sir!
Posted Mar 24, 2009 2:01 pm

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