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Oblica
Mountain/Rock

Oblica

 
Oblica

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.38826°N / 13.61852°E

Object Title: Oblica

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7369 ft / 2246 m

 

Page By: borut

Created/Edited: Jul 12, 2014 / Jun 19, 2015

Object ID: 904504

Hits: 558 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

Oblica (2246 m) is part of the Loška Stena array. If we start counting the main Loška Stena summits from the South, then Oblica is the second one, after Vrh Krnice.

The easiest way, though long, for a scrambler to summit Oblica is first to reach Vrh Krnice, and next to follow the ridge line northeastwards. Oblica is more often summited by people performing the entire Loška Stena ridge traverse, or by hunters, or by climbers coming up the NW face.
As far as a traverse is concerned, where the ridge between Oblica and Vrh Krnice is not much of a problem, the passage between Oblica and Vrh Rup is difficult (some authors consider it as one of the cruxes of the Loška Stena ridge traverse). 

As almost all the Loška Stena summits, Oblica has a SE side in the Bala valley, and a NW side in the Koritnica valley.

Loška Stena in the Koritnica valley
Walls of the orographically lower part of Loška Stena, in the Koritnica valley.


Koritnica Valley Climbs

Rising above a forest covered front-peak called Planinica, the N and NW walls of Oblica are well visible from the village of Log pod Mangartom. Oblica features some of the most accessible climbs in the Loška Stena array. The wall was first climbed in the 1980s and until now (2014), seven routes were opened, in the UIAA IV to V+ range, between 200 m and 400 m tall. Check the external links below for beta. Note that the first Ice climb on Loška Stena ("Zeleni slapovi") was performed on the Planinica N wall, in the gully between Oblica and Vrh Rup.

Oblica, N & NW face
Oblica north & nortwest face


Getting There

The forest covered front-peak called Planinica is where the climbs on Oblica N & NW start. 

One can reach Planinica along the Vrh Rup hunter's path and then cross the gully between Oblica and Vrh Rup *, but the more common ascent is along the hunter's path starting a few kilometers downstream of the village of Log pod Mangartom, close to the confluence of the Možnica valley and the Koritnica valley. The line is drawn on some maps and even appears on the Google map.

According to a recent report (Jul 2014), the cables in the gully are torn. Do not use that "path" and rather take the other access to Planinica.

Log pod Mangartom Trailhead info

Route

No recommended or marked path from the Bala valley. The best option is to follow the ridge, starting from the Vrh Krnice summit.

Red Tape

Here (Park rules)

Camping

List of camping places in Bovec and along the Trenta valley.

External Links

Beta : Oblica N & NW face on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, in Slovenian.

More External Links : Weather - National Park home page - Store: maps, literature & guiding services.

Images

Oblica in the springtimeRescev slapKaskadeOblicaOblica, N & NW faceOblica summitOblica, from Vrh Rup
Oblica NW : "Uvertura"Oblica NW : "Borutova smer"KaskadeKaskade