Approachsee the description of the approach by the Tazaghart Mountain
Route Descriptionfrom the hut of Tazaghart, climb on the left on the small cascade and then go in direction of West, to the south plate of Tsoukine. The corridor start just after a big block of rock which is very easy to identify from the hut ( see photo).
From the rock block, take the left way to climb to a small snow plate just up the rock block. From there climb on the right through 400 m directly in the corridor. Climb after in direction of WNW the small coomb until the top 2km after getting out from the corridor.
From there you can start the downhill following the same way you used to climb. Before the rock block, take the right side. When you have overpass the rock block, turn on your left and follow the coomb which is ending just down the hut. From there climb to the hut taking the right way which is less icy than the left one.
Essential GearGear : cramps, ice axe, snow-board, helmet.
Rope is not absolutly necessary.