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Ojos del Salado Climber's Log

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gordonyeFrom Chilean side
Date Climbed: Jan 3, 2018


Joined expedition by Chile Montana, with 8 clients and 2 guides. Base camp was Atacama Refugio, and camp 1 was Tejos Refugio. I turned around at 20000 feet on summit day due to lack of acclimatization, but the rest of the team all made it to the summit.
Posted Jan 7, 2018 12:56 am

sergejfSummit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2010


Fabulous day. Felt great until 6400 m. but slow going thereafter until the summit. Never wanted to go down! It snowed the next day. I think we were the last ones to summit.
Posted Jul 22, 2017 10:22 pm

Ellwood514Re: Summit
I will be attempting Ojos Del Salado in January 2018 but i have just found a website saying you must have a guide to climb the mountain from Chile? Can you shed any light on this as its the first i have heard of it?
Thanks for any help you can provide
Posted Dec 17, 2017 7:37 am

Guillaume.CeyracArgentine normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2017


After a 5 days approach from Quemadito to El Arenal I had to wait three days in my tent in high camp for the winds to calm down. It took me 7 hours from high camp (5900m) to reach the summit on a perfect day. I stayed an hour on the summit. I had to give up my idea to climb Walter Penck and ATA on the next days because of a massive storm coming in the area, and even had to ask for a 4x4 vehicule to come and take me out of this hell.
Posted Jan 21, 2017 4:14 pm

cinnamonletterFantastic Ojos from Argentina
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2013


Although we didn't reach the summit, it was a truly amazing experience.

The Seismiles and around, in the Argentinian part of the Desert Atacama, is one of the most beautiful areas I've ever had access to on this planet. We chose to approach and climb from Argentina and spent 12 days out there totally cut off from civilization; the summit bid fell on day number 9 and we reached an altitude of 6,600m when we decided to turn back due to exhaustion and the coming of a storm.
Posted May 21, 2016 2:47 pm

jckArgentinian side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2013


Made a high camp in the valley.
Started a little bit to early (alpine...) and met the first sunrays at about 6400 m. The headwall of summit piramide covered by very tricky snow (from about 6500 m), made the ascent a little bit more diffcult. Had to traverse from normal route more into Mike Dorse Direct variant.

Good but cold weather. Luckily almost no wind at all. A post-season trip was a good choice.

Climbed with Radek (brade) and Darek in 18 days unsupported roundtrip.
Posted May 8, 2013 4:53 pm

squickArgentinian Side - Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2012


Climbed with a friend in a couple of days from Arenales BC. Apparently we were only the second team to be successful this season on the Argie side due to huge amounts of snow. When we did it there were large stretches of waist deep snow which made progress slow.
Posted Apr 20, 2012 7:54 am

Guillaume.CeyracArgentine side
Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2010


Got there with Marcelo (RIP) from Catamarca and Martin from Buenos Aires. We made an amazing (and never attempted before) approaching route with Marcelo's Unimog (old 4x4 truck). Unfortunately, Martin and I finally did not reach the summit. Anyway, it was one of the most exciting adventure I've ever lived, within some of the most beautiful and remote landscapes you could ever dream of. 15 amazing days spent in the area.
Posted Sep 19, 2011 10:20 am

IdesChilean side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 17, 2011


Climbed from Tejos, started at 1:00 am. Reached the crater 7-8h later, where we had to stop for 1h to warm our feet, which were insensitive from the cold. We had been tramping in ankle-deep snow for 5 hours. There has been lots of snowfall this year, according to our guide Fernando.

Anyway, starting again at 10am, slow climb to the Chilean summit in 2h. Summiters additionally to me: Olivier Faivre and Fernando Opazo (guide). Great views from the summit. Interminable descent. Rested 1h in Tejos refuge before heading down to Atacama camp.
Posted Mar 8, 2011 9:24 am

monkeypikeArgentine Side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2011


Neil, Harriet, Arkaitz and Lisandro summitted in perfect weather and spent an hour on the summit before descending. We climbed via the normal route from a high camp at 5750m.

For Neil and Harriet this was one of five peaks climbed in the area (Viento, Ojos, Medusa, Cazadero, Nacimiento) in nine days. For info on these climbs look at our blog: www.pikesonhikes.blogspot.com
Posted Mar 4, 2011 10:28 am

gimpilatorThe Chilean Side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2011


I climbed this peak in 2 days with a great group of peakbaggers. It was very cold and very dusty but the rock climb at the top was not as hard as I expected.
Posted Jan 26, 2011 11:44 pm

TomekKOjos solo from Argetina  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 7, 2009


Road to Road in 4 days, solo unsupported. From Arenal to Cazadero in 15 hours, it was a loooong and tiring day. Summit straight from Arenal by "normal" route. Two days later Pissis in 24h. Great Adventure!:)
Posted Jun 1, 2009 12:31 pm

HellmuthStuvenRe: Ojos solo from Argetina



I am going solo and unsupported July 1th 2009.

1) Did you go up all the way from Arenal to the summit straight?

2) Would you like to tell me how you aclimatized?

3)AND did you really go from Arenal to Cazadero Grande in 15 hours? It is 54,5 km, according to my research. Or did you mean From Arenal to Aguas Calientes?

4) And only in 4 days from road to road???

I plan to aclimatize at Cazadero and Quemadito, before going up to the other camps.

Did you do it in winter or summer?

Hellmuth Christian Stuven
Posted Jun 5, 2009 7:25 am

TomekKRe: Ojos solo from Argetina


Hi! it better to reply later than not at all;)
2.I climbed Aconcagua 10 days before, had good aclimatization
3.yes, all the way down. long and hard walk but I was in a hurry to climb Pissis;)
4.yes, apparently the other polish guy Pedro, did it month after me too.
hope u climbed it!
Posted Nov 4, 2010 5:07 pm

PetroSolo from the argentinian side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2009


Similar to chris_goulet. I got by bike to Cazadero Grande and climbed the Ojos solo and unsupported (by the wide ridge on the right hand side of the glaciers). Climbed down by Mike Dorse Direct or a line close to it.
From Cazadero Grande to the summit and back to Cazadero Grande in 4 days.
Then continued to Copiapo by bike. Also a part of a longer trip.
Posted May 9, 2009 5:39 pm

HellmuthStuvenRe: Solo from the argentinian side


Hello, I am going solo and unsupporte July 1th 2009.
Did you really climb it from road to road in just 4 days??????

I plan to aclimatize at Cazadero and Quemadito, before going up to the other camps.
Did you do it in winter or summer?

Hellmuth Christian Stuven
Posted Jun 5, 2009 7:19 am

mthomasNormal Route up Chilean Side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 14, 2006


Spectacular weather on this climb after the normal climbing season. For the entire 10 days that we spent climbing in the area, the three of us (Sebastian Martinez from Aventurismo.cl, our driver Giglio, and me) were the only people in probably several hundred square kilometers, except for the three Chilean border guards. We didn't have any of the high winds that typically curtail many of the attempts.
Posted Mar 1, 2009 12:15 pm

CBakwinyo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2008


I tried this the 12th from ¨Puerto laguna negra, but ran outta steam (15km each way) at 6,100m, so moved to the ¨base camp ¨at the base of the snow bowl. summitted the next day , the worst weather of the week, in high winds and ground blizzards. What a slog, very long skree ridge then the usual ¨heartbreaker¨the last little scre slope, but worth every effort. Very nice peak, even if it took two days on mules to get in there,. The whole area really deserves much more time than I gave it, have to come back soon. 6 hrs 40 min up, 2 1/2 hrs down
Posted Feb 20, 2008 6:01 pm

davelimOjos - Solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2005


So there we have it - plodding and cramponing up some wind slab on a windy day - a nice, but mentally tough solo of Ojos Del Salado. 2nd attempt after the first was thwarted by deep snow and strong winds on Jan 18th. Left camp ( 5700m?) at 430am and reached the summit at 230 -245pm. Wicked 60-80km/h winds at the top - could barely stand. Local expert Jonson reynoso claimed my ascent was the 3rd solo - who knows?

My website at http://www.everest.org.sg - scroll the bar onthe left till you get to the 2005 expedition
Posted Feb 7, 2008 12:36 am

chris_gouletRe: Ojos - Solo


This man's determination is unbelievable. He's partially disabled with Guillain-Barre Syndrome. Both of his calf muscles and one ankle are non-functional.

Great to see you on SP, Dave, and congratulations!
Posted Dec 10, 2010 11:59 pm

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