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Oltarji
Mountain/Rock

Oltarji

 
Oltarji

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.39231°N / 13.62679°E

Object Title: Oltarji

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7572 ft / 2308 m

 

Page By: borut

Created/Edited: Aug 20, 2014 / Oct 6, 2014

Object ID: 909766

Hits: 207 

Page Score: 82.82%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

Oltarji (2308 m) is part of the Loška Stena array/group, a group of mountains described on the Loška Stena page. In the Koritnica Valley view of Loška Stena, Oltarji is to the right (SW) of Briceljk. The Briceljk SW ridge gently lowers to a notch, and the Oltarji summit is the tooth to the right of the notch.

Loška Stena in the Koritnica valley
Koritnica Valley: walls of the orographically lower part of Loška Stena.

The NW face (above Log pod Mangartom and the Koritnica Valley) is the climber's choice, but it hosts only a few lines, 500 to 650 m tall. The wall was first climbed in the mid 1970s. Note that in recent years, a Mixed (winter) line called 'Sneguljčica' (Snow White) has become quite popular. Also, two ice lines form on the pedestal. Please check the External Links section below for beta.

The south oriented faces and slopes (ESE and SW) of Oltarji are on the Bala Valley side, with no specific paths other than those of the chamois. We mainly stick to the ridge (SW-NE).

Oltarji SW ridge
SW ridge
Oltarji S face
S face
Oltarji E face
E face

Getting There

Bavšica trailhead (alt. 710 m)
On the road between the Predel pass (Italy/Slovenia border) and the town of Bovec (Slovenia), reach the Kluže fortress (530m). Follow the road sign for ' Bavšica ' till the end (a few kms). The Bala trail (signposted Jalovec, Zavetišče pod Špičkom) starts at the parking lot before the last houses.

Log pod Mangartom trailhead (alt. 700 m)
On the road between the Predel pass (Italy/Slovenia border) and the town of Bovec (Slovenia), reach the village of Log pod Mangartom (650 m). Enter the uppermost part of the Koritnica valley, upstream from the village of Log pod Mangartom, along a macadamized road.

 
Briceljk
Konrad Sus - view from Bavšica -Oltarji to the left.

(more info on the Loška Stena page)

Route

 
Oltarji northeast ascent
NE ascent
Though the ascent along the SW ridge (coming from Vrh Rup) is much easier, the standard ascent of Oltarji is the NE climb, from the notch between Oltarji and Briceljk. The reason for this is that Briceljk is easier to reach than Vrh Rup.

From the Briceljk summit, follow the SW ridge down to the notch before the Oltarji "buttress". The climb is ca 50 m tall, UIAA II. Worn out red marks help us up the step - quite a vertical and delicate climb along the angle + some exposition due to the drop of the NW face. Note: though an old rope might still be dangling there, don't mind the left alternate along the chimney.

Red Tape

Triglav National Park rules of conduct

Camping

There are many camping places in Bovec (see the camping section on the Loška Stena page), and along the Soča (Google).

External Links

Beta
Oltarji northwest face on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, beta, in Slovenian.

Maps
Jalovec and Mangart, 1:25.000 alpine association (PZS) map.
Tabacco map, western Julian Alps 1:25.000.
Sidarta maps

Images

Oltarji E faceOltarji NW face - close upOltarji SW ridgeOltarji S faceOltarji northeast ascentOltarji above Bala