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One for the Road
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One for the Road

 
One for the Road

Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Object Title: One for the Road

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.10-

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: hkutuk

Created/Edited: Nov 2, 2006 / Nov 4, 2006

Object ID: 240723

Hits: 4259 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

 
One for the Road
Brushy approach.
This route is on the southwest corner of the Great White Throne. Get off the shuttle at the Grotto stop and walk up canyon past by the picnic area. Once you get to the creek, pick up the trail along the creek. Go up creek for short distance and leave the creek hike uphill towards the wall. If you go too far along the creek you will need to backtrack through brush which would be a pain. The trail, if you can call it one, goes through brush and all kind of other nasty stuff. It was one of the harder approaches in the canyon, there maybe a better way, feedback is welcome.

Route Description

 
One for the Road
 
The route starts with a wide section and footholds that crumble under your weight. A hard stemming move and strenuous finger crack gets you out of the alcove. From here the crack is mostly thin hands with insecure jams and poor feet. Higher up there is some kind of an offwidth where you have to get creative choosing your move to get above it. The route has brushes growing in places where you want to jam. The route is in the shade in the morning and goes into the sun in the afternoon.

Essential Gear

Set of TCUs, a #3 or #2 camalot for the start, for the rest of the route gear up to #1 camalot. Doubles on #0.5 and 0.75, three or four #1 camalots. One 60m rope is sufficient.

Images

One for the RoadOne for the Road