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Open Book
Route

Open Book

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Wyoming, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 43.73000°N / 110.79°W

Object Title: Open Book

Route Type: Rock (Trad)

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 5.9+

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: old5ten

Created/Edited: Aug 14, 2005 / Jun 16, 2008

Object ID: 166252

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Approach

From Lupine Meadows hike up the Garnet Canyon trail for approximately 4 miles to reach the Platforms (approx. 1.5 - 2 hours). At this point the trail meets a creek and a posted sign ("Platforms"). Turn to the NNW and look for a prominent, right-facing "Open Book" on the buttress above you.

To reach the buttress, hike back (E) on the Garnet Canyon Trail about 50 yards and scramble up a faint trail to the NE (right), avoiding a cliff band on your left. After approx. 100 yards up the hill you'll be able to turn to the NW (left) on a huge and gentle ramp (boulders and meadow). Follow this ramp for approx. a quarter mile until you're under the "Open Book." Walk a bit further (W) and skirt up (N) and around (E) another cliff band.

Follow a narrowing, level ramp (Class 3/4) to the East for about 50 yards, until you reach a small pine tree and a very narrow rock ramp that leads to the left (W), the start of P1. Rossiter gives this starting variation of P1 a rating of Class 3, but an unroped fall on this section would result in a 200'+ fall and most certain death. I would call this ramp "exposed and easy 5th class," rope up and put in some pro!

Route Description

"Open Book" is quite a bit more serious (sustained, exposed, technical) than "Irene's Arete." By Teton standards this is a very clean route with a wonderful, airy position, and aesthetic climbing.

Do not leave any gear at the base of the climb or in Garnet Canyon as the easiest descent will take you back to the car on a different trail!

P1 - There are two starting variations to this pitch:
Var. 1 - Climb up a small, short (25') left facing corner (5.9)
Var. 2 - Climb across a narrow, upward sloping rock ramp starting from a small pine tree and trending West (easy 5th Class, exposed)
Both variations merge in a short easy section, which gives way to a steep (5.6) crack/face section. Rossiter's "Teton Classics" mentions a small tree here, unfortunately a minimal stump remains. Belay underneath a small roof.

P2 - Climb up and right utilizing good face holds on the right side of a small, right facing corner. Small pro. Climb up past a detached flake (CAUTION: don't pull out on this flake - SERIOUS danger for belayer below!). Belay off a fixed nut (and back-up pro) below a prominent white flake.

P3 - Climb aroud the white flake on the right (undercling, 5.8, better) or up to the left (5.9, tricky) and move up the right facing corner past a roof (5.8), to a thin, technical (5.9+, harder for fat fingers) section, and over another roof (5.7/8). Belay under a large roof.

P4 - Traverse for 15' to the East (right) under the large roof (5.8) and climb around it on the right side. One can go either right and up or left and up at this point. Going left has a tight, exposed exit move (watch rope drag!) on a left and upward leaning slab. Follow this slab for 20,' then angle up right toward a small, left facing dihedral/corner. Belay at the base of the corner.

P5 - Climb up the left facing and slightly left leaning corner (5.7) and exit via a small roof (5.9-, easier on right, slopers). Belay on a large ledge above the roof.

P6 - Go up a sm. lip/flake on the left side (5.7) and move right (E) along easy ground to several trees. Note: if climbing P7 belay below the OW/pod looming above.

P7 - This pitch is optional, may require additional large pro, and may have some poor rock. Go straight up the OW/pod (5.9) to the top.




Descent

From the belay on top of P6 move North along a narrow ledge (Class 3/4) lined with small trees and avoiding a 25 - 30' drop off to the East. This requires a slight bit of tunneling, but quickly yields to easier terrain (~80 yards). (One can reach this same point from the top of P7 by heading North from the last belay.) Eventually, one can see Amphitheater Lake below and to the North. Follow a faint path down toward a saddle to the East, then follow a narrow, but prominent path toward the East end of Amphitheater Lake. Hike the trail approx. 5 miles downhill to the East to get back to Lupine Meadows.

Essential Gear

Rack (obviously this depends on on your comfort level/experience):

Nuts: full set with doubles in the mid-range.
Cams: doubles from 0.33" to 2", 1 x 3" (could get away w/o. 1 x 2" and 3")


Resources

'Teton Classics' by Richard Rossiter, 1994 - nice book, good topos, mostly accurate descriptions, a bit dated