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Original Route.

 
Original Route.

Page Type: Route

Location: Nordland, Norway, Europe

Lat/Lon: 68.16420°N / 16.61280°E

Object Title: Original Route.

Route Type: Scrambling and Technical Rock.

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 5.6

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: darinchadwick

Created/Edited: Aug 3, 2004 / Aug 3, 2004

Object ID: 161712

Hits: 7295 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Approach


Follow "How to Get There" section.
Once reaching the talus area above the lake, there are two choices. One is to contour around steep talus and cliffs, heading for the pass between Prestind and Stetind, which is at the end of the lake. The other is to hop over talus toward the main wall of Stetind itself, heading for a green patch amid the rock. From here a rough climbers path heads up to the Halls toppen, or Fortoppen, as the false summit of Stetind is known. Recommended is to hike up to the pass on the ascent, and follow the climbers path on the descent, as the path has much gravel and loose junk.
If approaching the pass, head a little to the left of the lowest point of the pass, this takes the climber to a large ledge with the last reliable water source. Follow this huge ledge (big enough to drive a car on) over the pass to find the easiest way up. From the end, begin scrambling up easier rock, mostly class 2 with a touch of class 3 here and there.
If approaching from the climbers path: Continue 3rd class scrambling, and grunt hiking along the cliff edge, then wander out into talus, following cairns. The path eases as the climber approaches the Halls Toppen.
Both routes end at Halls Toppen, the false summit of Stentind. From here the true summit can be seen, and for most, the ropes are taken out here.

From the false summit descend left along the base of a large slab. Follow ledges around the slab and continue along the ridge crest itself (exposed). Continue on flatter, more bouldery terrain until coming to a drop off and a bolt. Downclimb the wide crack for 3 meters to more ledges. Continue to the left of the summit crest until facing a slab.
From the slab ease along a ledge that begins about a meter wide, but narrows until it's gone. From here, spot 3 pitons in a crack. This is the famous traverse with nauseating exposure. Bury your fingers to the hilt in the flake\crack, place your feet on slim nothings and traverse out and around to easier ground. It's sensational, but short, less than 3 meters.
Once around the traverse, it's back to 2nd and 3rd class scrambling (with one harder move, see photo) along the surprisingly wide spine of Stetind until reaching the summit plateau.
Descent. Follow the ascent route except for one difference. Instead of repeating the traverse, stay on the ridge crest. This leads to a rappel anchor directly above the beginning of the traverse. A 20 meter rappel lands you safely on a wide ledge.

Route Description


See approach.

Essential Gear


Most of the route can be simul-climbed. 10 stoppers, 2 medium cams, 3-5 slings. 1 50 or 60 meter rope.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

The summit of Stetind from Halls ForetoppThe view of Stetind\'s summit...The view of the false summit...The fun, easy, and exposed...The crux move of the original...Stetind summit bookMaking the rappel on the...
The one section of fifth...