Ortler / Ortles Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| Silvia Mazzani | North Ridge (normal)  Date Climbed: Sep 12, 1982 | |
| Superb ascent from Rif. Payer. | |
| Posted Dec 12, 2012 4:17 pm | ||
| pachamama | North Face Date Climbed: May 19, 2012 | |
| Good conditions. Good hard firn up to the "Gurgel" were we put on the rope. From there in good ice conditions we partly simul-climbed with four belay points on the way to rest and exchange gear. Start at Tabaretta Hut 4am, summit 10am back in Sulden 4pm. Long and nervy descent via Payer Hut and Tabaretta Hut. | |
| Posted Oct 2, 2012 3:06 am | ||
| marc123 | Beautiful Hintergrat Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006 | |
| Beautiful rock climb up the Hintergrat. | |
| Posted Jul 30, 2012 6:30 am | ||
| selinunte01 | Hintergrat route Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2003 | |
| Great preparation for high Wallis mountains: Ortler Hintergrat with excellent weather; second time I summited Ortler (first time via "normal route up and down on September, 15. 1999) | |
| Posted Feb 26, 2012 1:20 pm | ||
| Jurgen | Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: july 2004 | |
| I could imagine this would be a great route for its grade if there weren't hundred people on it everyday... | |
| Posted Dec 17, 2010 5:49 am | ||
| Dries Desmet | Hintergrat-Orter- Normal route Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2010 | |
| Very nice climb, we had very nice weather: a lot of sun and no clouds :-)). | |
| Posted Jul 27, 2010 4:25 am | ||
| Buthrakaur | hintergrat Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2009 | |
| we had quite cloudy and snow weather, but the climb was very nice - I enjoyed it very much. We stayed at bivac and went down normal route second day - the weather totally changed overnight so we could enjoy the perfect view.. | ||
| Posted Mar 26, 2010 4:56 pm | ||
| mvs | Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2009 | |
| Dan P. and I climbed the North Face in a long but rewarding day. We had whiteout conditions on the summit, unfortunately, and some excitement using map and compass to find our way north on the normal route. | |
| Posted Jun 2, 2009 4:16 am | ||
| Lubos | Normal route Date Climbed: Apr 25, 1985 | |
| one of my first, just great alpinism. | |
| Posted Mar 10, 2009 11:31 pm | ||
| Joerg Marretsch | Hintergrat ridge - summit - Normal route Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2008 | |
| Just a perfect day at the end of summer 2008. Best conditions and not too many people. | |
| Posted Sep 29, 2008 3:22 pm | ||
| Tomas Kristofory | 204th anniversary Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2008 | |
| We ascended Ortler via normal route with the base at Tabarettahuette with the club Euthanasia (www.euthanasia.cz). We ascended it on the same day, as was the 204th anniversary of the first ascend on Ortler. We had cloud inversion and saw brocken spectre of ours at Tschirfeck part. I just came, happy to be back alive. Snow made the ridge very tricky and a one guy in our group could have paid with his life for it. I'm too tired to write more or to post photos. You will have to wait some days/hours to see them. | |
| Posted Sep 28, 2008 6:28 pm | ||
| hupfi | Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008 | |
| Climbed the Ortler from Sulden with a nightstop at the payer hut in 2 days. nice weather and a beatiful trip with good friends. more at http://www.martinhupfauf.com/wordpress/?p=763 (sorry, only in german) and more pictures at http://www.martinhupfauf.com/fotoalbum/2008/2008-08-02%20Hochtour%20Ortler/index.html | ||
| Posted Aug 17, 2008 4:00 pm | ||
| julesblaidd | Through Tabaretta ridge Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008 | |
| It was a beautiful trip to the Ortler's summit. The weather was fantastic we were lucky. | |
| Posted Jul 21, 2008 1:56 am | ||
| andrea.it | Normal Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2007 | |
| Normal route from Payer hutte. 3.30 hours. | |
| Posted Jun 30, 2008 11:47 am | ||
| Modi | Normal Route Date Climbed: Jul 22, 1984 | |
| Climbed with Giamba,Augusto Andrea e Simonetta from Payer hut | |
| Posted Mar 2, 2008 7:22 am | ||
| archiloco | Route climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1988 | |
| From refuge Tabaretta to the summit. A very crowded route, but a great beautyful mountain. | |
| Posted Nov 10, 2007 3:35 pm | ||
| reinhard2 | Traverse Hintergrat - Payer hut Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2003 | |
| Very impressive but long trip. "Bianco ridge" in upper part had almost vanished. However, glacier descent astonishingly ok albeit non-freezing temperatures at 4000m 24h per day, and blank glacier with thick waterfalls close to the track. | |
| Posted Oct 17, 2007 2:53 pm | ||
| morceaux | Ortler - me 1:0 Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007 | |
| Yet another defeat... I "guided" two beginners with whom I first met on a glacier-travel course, and my best meteo-friend also came along. The weather was supposed to be fine, so we started from Sulden, and slept in Payerhütte. In the morning we got up late, started late, after everybody, and progressed very slowly on the technical parts of the ridge, because the two guys were inexperienced in free climbing. I didn't use the rope because the lack of anchor points and intermediate belays, we had no rock climbing equipment. The snow was melted already when we reached the glacier. All parties coming down the mountain told us its too late! After that, my friend fell into a crevasse, but it was no big, and on the glacier we were roped up, so there was no problem, he climbed out quickly. Some 250 meters below the summit the two guys stopped and said they won't go any further, the storm is coming, it's late, time to turn around. Meteo guy sayed go ahead, there will be no problem! By this time big clouds were gathering around the summit. We could not persuade the two guys, so we turned around. When we arrived to the most exposed part of the ridge, I belayed everybody down to a fixed ring above a small but difficult step, and tied the rope in. Then wind came and rain and hail began to fall, and my ixe axe began to sound on my backpack. I was getting nervous. Told everybody to hurry up. And then the sky sounded and I felt ourselves in a big piece of shit. I said it can't be... We can't suck a big storm here on the ridge... Meteo-guy said: keep calm, it will go away! We quickly continued descending, and indeed, the storm went away, stopped raining so finally we got down to Payerhütte with no problem. The two guys left their ice axes on the top of the chain-assured part because they were so scared of lightning. Anyway, the axes were made of aluminium, and they were not sounding... Next time... via Hintergrat, or maybe Nordwand. | |
| Posted Oct 10, 2007 3:47 am | ||
| Sebastian Hamm | Route Climbed: Payer-Hut Date Climbed: 13th September 2005 | |
| Great day with clouds, sunshine and perfect conditions. | |
| Posted Dec 19, 2005 3:18 pm | ||
| albertofanga | Route Climbed: normal route from Payer hut Date Climbed: August 1999 | |
| Reaching the Payer hut was very tough: it rained all the time and two lightnings were very close to us: not a nice experience! The day after a sunny day and a very good climbing to the summit. | |
| Posted Nov 6, 2005 8:43 am | ||
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