OsirisOsiris is a 36 metre VC 4c, that deserves every one of its 3 stars.
It was first climbed by Pardoe and Griffiths in February 1967.
It's on the non tidal Lewes Castle buttress at Fall Bay in the beautiful Gower coastline of South Wales. A ledge below this route sits above "King Wall" a tidal section of the area that contains some great lower grade routes.
It's only a ten minute walk from the car park and there is a pub there as well!
Route descriptionStart at a prominent leftward slanting groove under the roof. Follow this to a stance under the roof at it's widest point, by an old peg. Traverse right under the roof on good handholds but with only smears for the feet. Get yourself under the weakest point of the overhang, catch your breath and pull through on holds that are positive once you've found them! Finish up the easier headwall above. Belay a few metres back on short steps of rock.
Should you choose to move up rather than right at the widest part of the roof, you would be on a route caled Lazy Sunday Afternoon, an E2 5C
There are 22 routes recorded just on this buttress, with another 21 on the next buttress and yet another 37 on the lower tidal tier. A really great place to climb that holds special memories for me as it was the first place I ever climbed.