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Page Type: Route

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Ost-Grat

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.2 (YDS)

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
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Page By: darc

Created/Edited: Mar 25, 2008 / Mar 25, 2008

Object ID: 391143

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This route offers the best descent from Stockhorn. It is described here also in that sense of direction.

The route follows the east ridge until it reaches a broad and flat section close to a big red wall. There, the route bears south and descends through a couloir below the red wall until it finally reaches the boulder-strewn bowl below the south-east face.

Route Description

From the summit, bear north to descend the steep slope left of the E-Ridge (sometimes snow). Keep close to the ridge until you reach the first notch in the ridge. Now descend close to the edge, sometimes stay a bit below it. This section is quite exposed with difficulties up to UIAA grade III. At the more difficult sections the rock is predominantly stable.

Finally you gain the ridge and keep a little bit to the left. Don't be tempted to descend one of the steep couloirs to the right. After a while, a low-angled couloir left of the ridge leads to a boulder field. As the ground flattens, you can see the red wall to the right. Rappel down into the couloir below the wall. Climb down (loose sections) until the couloir steepens again. Another rappel brings you to a small path directly beneath the wall. Follow this path. It zig zags down until you reach the bowl below the south-east face.

You can use the same route for the ascent. However, the sections where the rappels (described above) are situated may be a little bit nasty due to loose rock, but not necessarily difficult.

Essential Gear

Helmet, 50m rope for the rappels.


Downclimbing on East Ridge