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Out of Control Area, 5.9-5.10c
Mountain/Rock

Out of Control Area, 5.9-5.10c

 
Out of Control Area, 5.9-5.10c

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Nevada, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.12570°N / 115.4932°W

Object Title: Out of Control Area, 5.9-5.10c

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Dec 5, 2013 / Feb 12, 2014

Object ID: 878691

Hits: 825 

Page Score: 74.63%  - 5 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
American Ninja, 5.11
American Ninja

The warmest winter area in all of Red Rock NCA is the lower south facing flank of Bridge Mountain located above Pine Creek Canyon. The more popular walls located there are Spectrum and Brass, however the Out of Control Area located further up canyon, more directly across from Dark Shadows Wall, offers several stellar routes for their respective grade.

Out of Control (5.10c-Grandstaff and Anderson) specifically is one of the better 5.10 single pitch crack climbs in all of Red Rock. It combines fingers, hands, a critical fist, arm bar, heel-toe and spectacular roof move to finish. Remote Control (5.9-same) is an above average 5.9 corner route for Red Rock as well. Both of these routes are pure trad and have modern (2013) fixed rap anchors that can be top roped with a 70m rope.

Park at the Pine Creek Canyon trailhead on the Red Rock loop road. Hike up canyon heading for the right side of Mescalito as though you are making for Dark Shadows. A climbers trail heads up to circumvent the lower wall for the second tier wall on your right (south facing). Traverse back right to a significant corner (Remote Control) and very comfortable and shaded belay pod.  This belay spot serves Remote Control which is the corner itself and Out of Control which is the splitter just meters to the left of the corner.

Route Description(s)

    The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall

  • American Ninja- 100’- 5.10c*/Rated as 5.10+ in Handren's guide, I concur with others that the crux is more like 5.11, I fell on it and lost a good chuck of knuckle skin.  Had no beta, would have helped a ton if I tackled it as a stemming problem to begin with versus wasting energy trying to  make it a finger pocket climb at the crux.  Most moderate climbers won't have that kind of finger strength.  A strenuous stem for several meters in the middle.  Pro is PG 13 at best, some brassies in the bottom of those corner pockets is the best you have.  Maybe a tri cam works. The crux is harder than Out of Control, but Out of Control is more sustained and by far the better route. Dow

  • Control Freak- 100’- 5.10c/

  • Out of Control- 120’- 5.10c***/This is one of the better single pitch crack climbs in Red Rock. From fingers to hands to fists to even an arm bar assisted by a heel-toe. What a diverse crack. Two cruxes: The flaring pod below the roof protects with a C4#3 which steals a solid fist away and requires a few technical off-width moves. The roof above has hands underneath, but when you go to pull it, it can take a bit to figure it out whilst you are left hanging. Feet are not obvious nor positive. Your right hand can make a great grab deep in allowing you to secure a decent ring lock high above and heave on up to your knees at least. It is an awkward move for the grade. Fantastic crack complimented with several other good pitches nearby. I recommend a triple from .5-2, double to 3, single 4. It is set up for a single 70m. Dow

  • Remote Control- 115’- 5.9*/Mostly straight in jams but less experienced climbers might prefer to layback it. The last several meters are a bit run out with a ledge below. A C4#4 protects in a pod right above the ledge, then not a whole lot of pro to finish except for maybe an aid type wire. But the finish is on jugs, albeit vertical ground. Set up for a single 70m. Dow

Images

Out of Control, 5.10cAmerican Ninja, 5.11