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Huevos
Gear Review

Huevos

 

Page Type: Gear Review

Object Title: Huevos

Manufacturer: Advanced Base Camp

Your Opinion: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: John

Created/Edited: Nov 1, 2002 / Nov 1, 2002

Object ID: 536

Hits: 1468 

 


Based on the popular curved design (although like most brands, the smallest sizes have a straight taper), Huevos deliver solid across-the-board performance in terms of stability and ease of placement and removal. In the sideways orientation they also feature an offset taper for flares. These nuts are nearly identical to the Black Diamond Stoppers, but the edges have been tumbled a bit longer and the heads are claimed to stick better on the cables for cleaning. Previously these were an anodized version of the BD Stoppers, however, in 2003 BD have started anodizing theirs as well.
  • 13 sizes: The smallest sizes (1-3) are for aid / bodyweight placements only and should not be used as lead climbing protection or in situations where shock loading can occur.
  • Huevos are tumbled longer than most to round the corners for ease of cleaning and general good looks.
  • Constructed of 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum.
  • The steel cable is galvanized and then swedged with copper sleeves, increasing the unit's overall trength and durability. Sleeves are covered with heat shrink tubing.
  • Counter-sunk holes increase cable strength and help prolong cable life.
  • Each Huevo is tested to half its rated strength to ensure quality and performance.
Technical Data:
    NutWidth (mm)Weight (g)Strength (kN)
    14.3–9.172
    24.8–9.982
    36.1–11.4155
    46.9–12.4176
    58.4–13.5186
    610.2–15.53110
    711.7–16.33310
    813.5–18.33610
    915.2–20.83910
    1017.3–23.44310
    1120.1–26.74810
    1222.9–30.55510
    1326.4–35.17010
    Whole Set#1–#13420 
Accolades:
  • Climbing Magazine (2001): Editors' Choice: "Curved design delivers good all-around performace (going in, staying put, coming out). Sideways offset taper accomodates flares. Great color coding. Good value."
Similar Products: BD Stoppers, DMM Wallnuts, Metolius Curve Nut, Wild Country Rocks

Reviews

Viewing: 1-4 of 4

Alan EllisUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

Colors are good but it tends to wear off after use. Otherwise, they're grippy and place well. I really like them.
Posted Dec 2, 2002 8:29 am

Martin CashUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

A good set of stoppers for your cragging or alpine trad rack. They are almost identical to the BD stoppers, yet are significantly cheaper. The color coding makes them easy to sort through, after you are used to them. I've used them exclusively on granite with no complaints. Definately more versatile than some of the specialty shaped rocks out there. They fit well into a variety of different cracks.



Best set of nuts on the market, considering price as a factor.
Posted Aug 11, 2003 6:37 pm

miztflipUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

These things are increadible. The color coding makes for easy selection while climbing and the design is almost identical to BD's stoppers. This has allowed me to slowly replace my stoppers without changing sizes and shapes.



The price and quality alone make for a great piece of gear.
Posted Nov 27, 2004 11:43 pm

rhyangNo complaints

Voted 4/5

They work. They're cheap. #1-3 are only for aid. I also like the newer WC rocks, which are similar but have a different numbering scheme.
Posted May 23, 2007 9:52 pm

Viewing: 1-4 of 4