Matt Lemke - Sep 16, 2014 6:06 am Date Climbed: May 2, 2014
Excellent Route
Did with Jacob...swapped leads nicely and didn't have to wait on anyone despite a nice weather sunday.
Kerstin - May 27, 2012 10:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1986
Hot day, beautiful route
We got roasted on that route! It was 99 degrees that day. We had one liter of water between us. At the top we found a small seep and were able to lay a ziploc bag flat in the mud to gather about a half-cup of dirty water at a time. We'd done exactly the same thing the day before on Mary Jane Dihedral, except it had been 100F. Dehydration sucks. Those two days made me permanently obsessed with always bringing enough water.
soloed the first 2 pitches, then did several variations making each roped pitch 5.9 (finger crack on 5 and direct bulge on 4), and p6 perhaps 5.10a by using only the finger crack. still, the route felt like it lacked something...probably bc the crux came early (p3) and the splitter wasn't so clean due to all kinds of face options around...
reboyles - Mar 1, 2010 11:22 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 1978
Another Becky Beauty
I did this route twice in the late 70s and like most Becky routes, this one is a classic. I did the crux 2 ways, one low where you use the edges for handholds and the other where you use the edges for footholds. I think the second way was easier. If there are more than 2 in your party make sure you leave a few pieces of pro in before the crux traverse to minimize rope drag for the rest of your party.
great day out with Studnicki-Gizbert. left too much rope drag on the traverse lead : (
fun route.
lukic - Oct 7, 2008 2:21 am Date Climbed: Oct 6, 2008
Fun route
Even in a chilly drizzle, this was still a fun route. Look forward to doing it again with a bit better weather.
MichaelJ - Aug 19, 2008 2:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008
Direct start rules
It was over a 100 degrees and I felt like I was back in Thailand on the hike in but the 10b start was worth it (I won the rock-paper-scissors). Stellar day out with Seth and Noah.
baloodh2000 - Jul 24, 2008 11:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008
Saaa Weeet
Another wonderful day with Tom. 6 hours car to car. I think we were on the route maybe 4 hours 30 minutes. First pitch was slick. Second was kind of wild. All the rest of the pitches were brilliant. Love the top 2 pitches on the headwall. Absolutely amazing. I will be returning for more most definitely.
mybackyard - May 20, 2008 1:17 am Date Climbed: May 18, 2008
Alone in the enchantments... (no, really)
Great day. Swapped leads w/ Kevin. Splitter heaven. Nice varied climbing on great rock.
Climbed this one with Albert Newman. Way exciting traverse early on in the climb w/ lots of exposure. Won't soon forget the stellar crack system up top.
Matt Lemke - Sep 16, 2014 6:06 am Date Climbed: May 2, 2014
Excellent RouteDid with Jacob...swapped leads nicely and didn't have to wait on anyone despite a nice weather sunday.
Kerstin - May 27, 2012 10:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1986
Hot day, beautiful routeWe got roasted on that route! It was 99 degrees that day. We had one liter of water between us. At the top we found a small seep and were able to lay a ziploc bag flat in the mud to gather about a half-cup of dirty water at a time. We'd done exactly the same thing the day before on Mary Jane Dihedral, except it had been 100F. Dehydration sucks. Those two days made me permanently obsessed with always bringing enough water.
sgiles - Apr 13, 2012 9:40 pm
ClassicClassic route, one of my all time favorites. Pure fun
dan-o - Aug 12, 2011 3:53 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2011
Outer SpaceGreat route, great day. Thanks Kurt and Abe.
zoomloco - Jul 19, 2011 1:09 am
nice climb, if a bit overhypedsoloed the first 2 pitches, then did several variations making each roped pitch 5.9 (finger crack on 5 and direct bulge on 4), and p6 perhaps 5.10a by using only the finger crack. still, the route felt like it lacked something...probably bc the crux came early (p3) and the splitter wasn't so clean due to all kinds of face options around...
RetroGear - Apr 13, 2011 1:21 am
Outer SpaceThe chickenheads are classic!
reboyles - Mar 1, 2010 11:22 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 1978
Another Becky BeautyI did this route twice in the late 70s and like most Becky routes, this one is a classic. I did the crux 2 ways, one low where you use the edges for handholds and the other where you use the edges for footholds. I think the second way was easier. If there are more than 2 in your party make sure you leave a few pieces of pro in before the crux traverse to minimize rope drag for the rest of your party.
Vinny - Jul 2, 2009 7:16 pm
good timesgreat day out with Studnicki-Gizbert. left too much rope drag on the traverse lead : (
fun route.
lukic - Oct 7, 2008 2:21 am Date Climbed: Oct 6, 2008
Fun routeEven in a chilly drizzle, this was still a fun route. Look forward to doing it again with a bit better weather.
MichaelJ - Aug 19, 2008 2:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008
Direct start rulesIt was over a 100 degrees and I felt like I was back in Thailand on the hike in but the 10b start was worth it (I won the rock-paper-scissors). Stellar day out with Seth and Noah.
baloodh2000 - Jul 24, 2008 11:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008
Saaa WeeetAnother wonderful day with Tom. 6 hours car to car. I think we were on the route maybe 4 hours 30 minutes. First pitch was slick. Second was kind of wild. All the rest of the pitches were brilliant. Love the top 2 pitches on the headwall. Absolutely amazing. I will be returning for more most definitely.
mybackyard - May 20, 2008 1:17 am Date Climbed: May 18, 2008
Alone in the enchantments... (no, really)Great day. Swapped leads w/ Kevin. Splitter heaven. Nice varied climbing on great rock.
seth fridae - Jan 21, 2007 3:40 am
beutyClimbed this one with Albert Newman. Way exciting traverse early on in the climb w/ lots of exposure. Won't soon forget the stellar crack system up top.