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Palisades

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Palisades

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.09390°N / 118.522°W

Object Title: Palisades

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 14242 ft / 4341 m

 

Page By: Brian Kalet

Created/Edited: Jan 12, 2006 / Dec 18, 2013

Object ID: 171074

Hits: 70468 

Page Score: 97.96%  - 75 Votes 

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Overview


The Palisades. Photo: Misha

The Palisades is the most alpine subrange in the Sierra Nevada and contains some of the Sierra's highest peaks, its largest glacier, and most stunning scenery. It is a Mecca for trad climbers, ice climbers, backpackers, and a few scramblers who seek the area's dramatic scenery and alpine adventures.

The Palisades includes seven mountains topping 14,000 ft., which is nearly half of the 14ers in California, and several other peaks that are over 13,000 ft. The Palisades' high point is North Palisade at 14,242 ft. The Palisades spans from Taboose Pass south of Cardinal Mountain to Bishop Pass north of Mount Agassiz. It straddles the Sierra Crest and is bounded by the John Muir Wilderness in Inyo National Forest to the east and Kings Canyon National Park and the Middle Fork of the Kings Canyon to the west. Much of the west side of the range is only accessible by cross-country hiking. The most common type of rock is granite of varying quality, although metamorphic "Roof Pendants" seen at the top of Split Mountain are also present.


"Starlight Peak" - Photo: m_dquist

Most of the routes in the Palisades are at least somewhat difficult. The Palisades include several classic alpine rock, and snow, ice-climbing routes. It is also possible to do a traverse of most of the major Palisade peaks. However, because the Palisades peaks as a group are steep--much steeper than most other Sierra Peaks or subranges--there are only a handful of established class 2-3 routes. In fact, several summits--Polemonium Peak, North Palisade, "Starlight Peak", and Thunderbolt Peak can only be reached by at least fourth class climbing and Thunderbolt Peak's summit block is Class 5.8-5.9.

Besides rock, the Palisades also contains some of the Sierra best snow and ice climbs. The East Couloir of Split Mountain, V Notch Couloir of Polemonium Peak, and U-Notch Couloir between Polemonium Peak and North Palisade contain snow climbs early in the season and ice climbs in the fall.


Norman Clyde Peak. Photo: Misha

The Palisades also contain some fantastic backpacking opportunities. Much of the west side of the Palisades and basins immediately below are accessible only after climbing over class 2 and class 3 passes, although the Basins between the passes are gentle, rolling granite landscapes. Two trails, the Bishop Pass Trail and Taboose Pass Trail, cross the Sierra crest adjacent to the Palisades along with a few cross country routes, none of which are trivial. The John Muir Trail/Pacific Crest Trail parallels the Palisades to the west below. Steve Roper's "Sierra High Route" also passes through the area, offering a more adventurous and alpine alternative to the John Muir Trail below. A few trails approach the east side. The Big Pine Creek Trailhead provides access to some of the finest scenery in the Sierra, with views of the east side of the Palisades from Disappointment Peak to Mt. Agassiz, in addition to the Middle Palisade and Palisade Glaciers. The "Camping" section below describes some of the area's camping locations. See RJ Secor's The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails for more information.

Etymology
Peter Browning in Place Names of the Sierra Nevada says this about the Palisades' etymology:

"The Palisades were named by the Brewer party of the Whitney Survey in 1864. '...along the Main crest of the Sierra is a range of peaks, from 13,500 to 14,000 feet high, which we called "the Palisades." ...they were very grand and fantastic in shape."

Routes

Peaks listed are found in The Climber's Guide to the High Sierra and are listed from south to north. Summitpost links are provided for the peaks when available. When not available, Lists of John links are provided.

PeakElevationRouteRating
1285112,851 ft.From Taboose PassClass 2
Cardinal Mountain 13,397 ft. Direct East RidgeClass 2
Split Mountain 14,058 ft. North Slope from the East Class 2
rere rere East Couloir Class 3-4 or AI 2
rere rere St. Jean's Couloir Class 3-4
Mount Tinemaha12,519 ft.South Drainage from the EastClass 2
"Twin Peaks"13,061 ft.From Mather PassClass 2
Mount Prater13,471 ft.South Slope from the EastClass 2
Mount Bolton Brown13,538 ft.South RidgeClass 3
Birch Mountain 13,665 ft. South Slopes Class 2
"Ed Lane Peak"13,576 ft.From Birch Lake Class 3
The Thumb 13,388 ft. Southfork Pass Class 3
Disappointment Peak 13,917 ft. East Ridge / Traverse from Balcony Peak Class 4
Middle Palisade 14,040 ft. Northeast Face Class 3
rere rere Traverse from Disappointment Class 4
Norman Clyde Peak 13,920 ft. North - Northeast Ridge Class 3-4
rere rere Eagle Face Grade II; Class 5.4
Palisade Crest 13,553 ft. Northwest Ridge Grade III; Class 4
Giraud Peak12,608 ft.Northeast RidgeClass 3-4
Mount Jepson 13,390 ft. From the South Class 2
Columbine Peak12,652 ft.Death DihedralClass 5.10
rere rere Northeast Ridge Class 2-3
"Barrett Peak"13,962 ft.From the north or eastClass 2-3
Mount Sill 14,153 ft. Southwest slope Class 2
rere rere Scimitar Pass to Southwest Chutes Class 2-3
rere rere Northwest Face Class 3-4
rere rere North Couloir Class 4
rere rere Swiss Arête Class 5.7
Isosceles Peak 12,321 ft. Southeast Ridge Class 5.4
rere rere Southwest Buttress Grade II; Class 5.6
Polemonium Peak 14,080 ft. Traverse from Mt. Sill to S.E. Ridge Class 3-4
rere rere From the U-Notch Class 4
rere rere V Notch Couloir Grade III; AI2 or WI3
North Palisade 14,242 ft. West Chute (U-Notch Southwest Side) Class 4
rere rere Clyde Variation Class 4
rere rere U-Notch + Chimney Variation Class 5.2
rere rere Starlight Buttress Class 5.5
"Starlight Peak" 14,200 ft. Starlight Buttress Class 5.5 with Class 5.6 Summit Block
rere rere Traverse from Thunderbolt Class 5.6, but mostly Class 3-4
rere rere Northwest Chute Class 4 with Class 5.6 Summit Block
Thunderbolt Peak 14,003 ft. Southwest Chute number 1 Class 3 with Class 5.8-5.9 Summit Block
rere rere Underhill Couloir, Right-Hand Class 5.5-5.6 with Class 5.8-5.9 Summit Block
rere rere North Couloir Class 4 with Class 5.8-5.9 Summit Block
rere rere Northeast Couloir Class 3-4 Rock, Class 4-5 Ice with Class 5.8-5.9 Summit Block
rere rere Northwest Ridge Grade III; Class 5.5 with Class 5.8-5.9 Summit Block
rere rere East Face, Right Side Class 5.6 with Class 5.8-5.9 Summit Block
rere rere The Summit Block Class 5.8-5.9
Kid Mountain11,896 ft.From the northClass 2
Mount Gayley 13,510 ft. Southwest Ridge/Yellow Brick Road Class 3
rere rere South Face Class 4
rere rere Right Face (right side of east face) Grade II; Class 5.8
Mount Winchell 13,768 ft. East Arete Class 2-3
Temple Crag 12,999 ft. North Couloir Class 4
rere rere Contact Pass Class 5.2
rere rere Venusian Blind Arete Grade III; Class 5.7
rere rere Moon Goddess Arete Grade IV; Class 5.7
rere rere Sun Ribbon Arete Grade IV; Class 5.9
rere rere Planaria Grade V; Class 5.10
rere rere Southeast Side via Agassiz Col Class 2-3
Mount Agassiz 13,891 ft. West Slope from Bishop Pass Class 2-3
Mount Robinson12,967 ft.West RidgeClass 3-4
Aperture Peak 13,265 ft. From Jigsaw Pass Class 3
Mount Alice11,617 ft.All DirectionsClass 2 & 3
Gendarme Peak13,241 ft.From Jigsaw PassClass 3
Picture Puzzle13,280 ft.North SlopesClass 3
Two Eagle Peak12,966 ft.East RidgeClass 3
Cloudripper13,525 ft.West ChuteClass 3
Chocolate Peak11,682 ft.South RidgeClass 2
"Vagabond Peak"13,374 ft.From the northClass 2

Red Tape

The Palisades are managed by 2 separate public land entities: Kings Canyon National Park, on the western side of the crest & Inyo National Forest on the eastern side. More specifically, the Inyo National Forest portion of the Palisades lies almost entirely within the John Muir Wilderness.

Overnight users entering from the east will need a wilderness permit from Inyo National Forest, which due to limited availability, should be reserved as far in advance as possible. More information on obtaining wilderness permits from Inyo National Forest may be obtained here. Backpackers entering Kings Canyon National Park from Inyo National Park do not need to apply for a wilderness permit with Kings Canyon National Park: they do, however, need to get a permit from Inyo National Forest for their entry trailhead. Day users do not need a wilderness permit. Backpackers approaching the Palisades from a Kings Canyon trailhead, e.g., Roads End at Cedar Grove, need to get a wilderness permit from Kings Canyon National Park.

Bear canisters are required for overnight stays in Dusy Basin, Palisade Basin, and from the South Lake area, including Long Lake, Saddlerock Lake, and Bishop Lake. They may be rented at the Inyo National Forest ranger Station in Bishop. For information on bear canister requirements, check here.

Camping

Camping areas are listed from south to north.

West Side


Upper Basin
Upper Basin is defined by Split Mountain and Cardinal Mountain to the east. It is a high, alpine gently rolling tundra/moonscape. Upper Basin is bisected by the John Muir Trail, yet by wandering away from the trail, there are numerous campsites allowing solitude. The closest r