Falk - Aug 16, 2017 2:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2017
From Refuge de Ciottulu
Started from the Refuge at first light and had the summit all for myself on a cloudless morning. Nice and easy scrambling on perfect rock almost all the way. Simply wonderful!
I started at sunset and went from the refuge di i Mori up to the ridge (or 'col des maures') Lots of cairns indicating the way up. I had to climb a few boulders at one point, which I didn't realize, so lost some time there looking for the right way up. Everybody at the refuge mistook the west summit for the real summit. From the west summit you can see the real summit with the cross on it, which was another half an hour. This was probably my favorite climb in Corisca, with nice views also of the Capu Tafunatu hole.
selinunte01 - Jan 4, 2009 11:01 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007
Wrong way up - right way down
We hiked Paglia Orba from Col de Vergio - missed the right ascent above the Refuge Ciuttulu di i Mori and traversed the summit rock on the south side - very interesting climb through chutes, holes and little ridges. There are some cairns anyhow.
Went the right route down. Great summit!!
Andino - Aug 10, 2008 5:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2008
Normal route
We started with a few clouds, then the sky cleared out during the ascent. Easy ascent with a few grade III steps. No rope needed if careful. The view on top is wonderful. 2h for the way up and 1h30 down. A must-do in Corsica !! ;o)
chugach mtn boy - Jun 24, 2008 11:45 am Date Climbed: May 28, 2008
Cheminées de Foggiale
My teenage daughter and I had a wonderful day on this peak while the rest of our family hit the shops in Calvi. We carried a short 9mm rope and did three pitches above the Epaule. The route description of the Cheminées de Foggiale is a little outdated and I've added some updates in the comments link off the page for that route. Fun scramble descent to the Col de Maures.
Thomas Gurviez - May 20, 2007 1:42 pm Date Climbed: May 12, 2007
by the col des Maures
beautiful mountain with amazing views to the Capu Tafunatu hole and the Mediterranean sea
Flachlandtiroler - Mar 29, 2006 4:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2003
Route: Cheminées de Foggiale
Started from Calasima (1095m), the highest permanent village of corsica situated in the "Niolo" basin. At the end of the narrow tar road there is parking place for about ten cars which was not an issue regarding the very early morning hour I arrived.
A gravel road leads into the viru valley but has to be left at an uncertain point. So finding the ford across river Golo in dawn took some time, the path is sparsely if at all marked. After an hour or so I reached the GR20 trail from Bergerie Ballone and enjoyed sunrise and seclusion. From there on I couldn't go wrong and crossed Bocca di Fogghiale towards Ref. Ciuttoli-di-i-mori, where a second breakfast at nine o'clock was held.
Then I followed the cairns (there are quite several in almost every direction) in the most comfortable manner and so -by error- ended at Epaule Foggiale. The climb from there to the summit was truly exciting as I had no idea which way to take but only the certainty beeing off the normal route; I followed my instinct and the very few cairns and slings along the way. A sort of tunnel underrunning a big block jammed on top of a chimney was too small for me and so the (unnecessary?) deviation I took made the crux of the route for me. Perhaps UIAA III on good, solid rock, but alone and without belay... The rest to my relief was quite easy and after all I made it in less than two hours from the hut to the summit, where a german couple already was resting.
Unfortunately the top was already in the the clouds so after a short break I followed the two people down the normal route which now to me seemed a piece of cake.
Descent into viru valley followed the way here with small detour to Punta Tula from the Col di Fogghiale. At 2 p.m. I was back at the car and grinned for the first raindrops of the usual afternoon shower.
tiefenthaler - Feb 17, 2006 9:55 am Date Climbed: Oct 11, 1986
Normal route
Some easy climbing, but never really hard. Wonderful day late in the year
Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: september 2005
Definetly the most beautiful mouintain in Corsica.
Normal route is short and direct (535m) from last hut but in a couloir and you have to use hands at some places and feel safe at certain points (a rope is not necessary, except for beginners).
View is fantastic. avoid the crowded times of july and august. True summit is the second one, reached after a short descent from a subsidiary western peak.
Route Climbed: Normal Route from Col de Vergio Date Climbed: May 2002
Nice, but very hot climb. Two days before we were at the lac de Cinto at the same altitude and found it frozen with several inches of ice. That day the sun was burning down on us an I'll never forget the sunburn I got. I'll never forget the impressions climbing the chimneys towards the summit. Almost all the time we had a perfect (but changing) view of the big hole in Capu Tafonatu. Didn't make it to the summit, though, due to health reasons (Suffocation and a heavily beating heart; and I was only 38 at the time!).
Falk - Aug 16, 2017 2:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2017
From Refuge de CiottuluStarted from the Refuge at first light and had the summit all for myself on a cloudless morning. Nice and easy scrambling on perfect rock almost all the way. Simply wonderful!
ncst - Sep 12, 2010 3:11 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2010
From the refuge di i MoriI started at sunset and went from the refuge di i Mori up to the ridge (or 'col des maures') Lots of cairns indicating the way up. I had to climb a few boulders at one point, which I didn't realize, so lost some time there looking for the right way up. Everybody at the refuge mistook the west summit for the real summit. From the west summit you can see the real summit with the cross on it, which was another half an hour. This was probably my favorite climb in Corisca, with nice views also of the Capu Tafunatu hole.
selinunte01 - Jan 4, 2009 11:01 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007
Wrong way up - right way downWe hiked Paglia Orba from Col de Vergio - missed the right ascent above the Refuge Ciuttulu di i Mori and traversed the summit rock on the south side - very interesting climb through chutes, holes and little ridges. There are some cairns anyhow.
Went the right route down. Great summit!!
Andino - Aug 10, 2008 5:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2008
Normal routeWe started with a few clouds, then the sky cleared out during the ascent. Easy ascent with a few grade III steps. No rope needed if careful. The view on top is wonderful. 2h for the way up and 1h30 down. A must-do in Corsica !! ;o)
chugach mtn boy - Jun 24, 2008 11:45 am Date Climbed: May 28, 2008
Cheminées de FoggialeMy teenage daughter and I had a wonderful day on this peak while the rest of our family hit the shops in Calvi. We carried a short 9mm rope and did three pitches above the Epaule. The route description of the Cheminées de Foggiale is a little outdated and I've added some updates in the comments link off the page for that route. Fun scramble descent to the Col de Maures.
Thomas Gurviez - May 20, 2007 1:42 pm Date Climbed: May 12, 2007
by the col des Mauresbeautiful mountain with amazing views to the Capu Tafunatu hole and the Mediterranean sea
Flachlandtiroler - Mar 29, 2006 4:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2003
Route: Cheminées de FoggialeStarted from Calasima (1095m), the highest permanent village of corsica situated in the "Niolo" basin. At the end of the narrow tar road there is parking place for about ten cars which was not an issue regarding the very early morning hour I arrived.
A gravel road leads into the viru valley but has to be left at an uncertain point. So finding the ford across river Golo in dawn took some time, the path is sparsely if at all marked. After an hour or so I reached the GR20 trail from Bergerie Ballone and enjoyed sunrise and seclusion. From there on I couldn't go wrong and crossed Bocca di Fogghiale towards Ref. Ciuttoli-di-i-mori, where a second breakfast at nine o'clock was held.
Then I followed the cairns (there are quite several in almost every direction) in the most comfortable manner and so -by error- ended at Epaule Foggiale. The climb from there to the summit was truly exciting as I had no idea which way to take but only the certainty beeing off the normal route; I followed my instinct and the very few cairns and slings along the way. A sort of tunnel underrunning a big block jammed on top of a chimney was too small for me and so the (unnecessary?) deviation I took made the crux of the route for me. Perhaps UIAA III on good, solid rock, but alone and without belay... The rest to my relief was quite easy and after all I made it in less than two hours from the hut to the summit, where a german couple already was resting.
Unfortunately the top was already in the the clouds so after a short break I followed the two people down the normal route which now to me seemed a piece of cake.
Descent into viru valley followed the way here with small detour to Punta Tula from the Col di Fogghiale. At 2 p.m. I was back at the car and grinned for the first raindrops of the usual afternoon shower.
tiefenthaler - Feb 17, 2006 9:55 am Date Climbed: Oct 11, 1986
Normal routeSome easy climbing, but never really hard. Wonderful day late in the year
bruno baschung - Aug 18, 2005 8:37 am
Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: september 2005Definetly the most beautiful mouintain in Corsica.
Normal route is short and direct (535m) from last hut but in a couloir and you have to use hands at some places and feel safe at certain points (a rope is not necessary, except for beginners).
View is fantastic. avoid the crowded times of july and august. True summit is the second one, reached after a short descent from a subsidiary western peak.
Bruno BASCHUNG
Gangolf Haub - Dec 16, 2003 3:51 pm
Route Climbed: Normal Route from Col de Vergio Date Climbed: May 2002Nice, but very hot climb. Two days before we were at the lac de Cinto at the same altitude and found it frozen with several inches of ice. That day the sun was burning down on us an I'll never forget the sunburn I got. I'll never forget the impressions climbing the chimneys towards the summit. Almost all the time we had a perfect (but changing) view of the big hole in Capu Tafonatu. Didn't make it to the summit, though, due to health reasons (Suffocation and a heavily beating heart; and I was only 38 at the time!).