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Pala del Bo

 
Pala del Bo

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.32220°N / 12.07060°E

Object Title: Pala del Bo

County: Veneto

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 6972 ft / 2125 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: May 8, 2017 / Sep 26, 2017

Object ID: 998705

Hits: 232 

Page Score: 83.69%  - 17 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Moiazza Group > Pala del Bo




Pala del Bo 2125 m





Masenade and Cantoni del Duran Subgroup is the SE uttermost sector of Moiazza Group, this latter sometimes regarded as a sector of the adjacent Civetta, actually an autonomous group, located between Val di Zoldo and Vallata Agordina, in the Eastern Dolomites. This fine subgroup is located near Passo Duran m. 1605, a col connecting Forno di Zoldo and Agordo, in a fine position between San Sebastiano - Tamer Group to the South and Masenade - Cantoni del Duran subgroup to the North. This latter counts a wide number of rocky towers, needles and walls, built in a very good grey and yellow “dolomia”, just a paradise for the climbers, overlooking Passo Duran. Pala del Bo is one of these walls, a rocky summit located in the lower sector of the Masenade, in the Easternmost area, on the right of the imposing Pala del Belia.

Pala del Bo e Pala del Belia annotatedPala del Bo e Pala del Belia


On the triangular South wall of Pala del Bo we find some nice routes suitable also for off season (late Spring or early Autumn). The often attended Via Decima-Cimpellin, described in the next chapters, is a classic style good route, pleasant and not too demanding, quite advisable to get acquainted with the Dolomites' climbing way.

Getting There

Road access

The starting point to climb is Passo Duran m. 1605. The nearest town is Belluno. From Belluno there are two possibilities to reach Passo Duran:

A. Via Val di Zoldo - From Belluno take the road 50 to Ponte nell’Alpi, then the road 51 getting to Longarone; in Longarone turn to left, following the road 251 to Forno di Zoldo m. 810. Passed Forno di Zoldo the road forks; turn to left taking the road 347 rising steeply to Passo Duran m. 1605 (40 km from Belluno)

Old thiny shelter and Pelmo seen from the Val di Zoldo road
Old shelter and Pelmo from Val di Zoldo
Moiazza from Passo Duran at sunset
Moiazza from Passo Duran at sunset
San Sebastiano group seen from the path to Ref. Carestiato
San Sebastiano group seen from the approach path


B. Via Vallata Agordina - From Belluno take the road 203 to Mas, entering the Canale d’Agordo valley and reaching Agordo. Some hundred meters before the town, turn to right and take the road 347 rising to Passo Duran m. 1605 (32 km. from Belluno).

Route: Via Decima-Cimpellin

Via Decima-Cimpellin report - UIAA scale

Difficulty: AD+, IV+ max
Length: 240 m.
Pitches: 8
Exposure: S
First ascent: G. Decima, P. Cimpellin, august 1950

Moiazza from Passo Duran at sunset
Masenade and Cantoni del Duran at sunset

Almost a B/W - Uncertain sunrise on the way to Pala del Bo
Almost a B/W - Uncertain sunrise on the way to Pala del Bo



A fun pleasant climb with good rock in a fine setting. Quick approach and favorable exposure. The in-place protections are very limited anyhow the route is advisable for a first taste of climbing in Moiazza group.

 
Beta of Decima-Cimpellin, Pala del Bo
 


Approach - From Passo Duran take the path n. 549 that rises initially along the meadows until it joins a gravel road (Alta Via n. 1) leading to Rifugio Carestiato. Shortly before reaching the hut the Pala del Bo is just well visible on the right, showing a triangular wall above a steep slope. In the leftmost point of the triangular wall under an obvious rock gully it starts the climb. Leave the gravel road without reach the hut and take on the right the scree rising to the base of the wall.

Approach from Rifugio Carestiato - From the hut take the dive immediately above, following the directions to Via Ferrata Costantini. Soon , leave the signpost to the ferrata and take on the right a trail that passes under the vertical walls of Pala del Belia, climb up a white gully (possible snow-tongue in early season) and immediately after reachs the base of the wall.

The starting point of the climb is situated on the left end of the wall, below an obvious gully.



L1 - Climb the slabs on the right of the gully, III, 35 m.
L2 - Up again on the right of the gully getting the base of a short overhang, III, 40 m
L3 - Overcome the overhang on the most convenient point (IV), then obliquely to the right leave the gully and follow the sloping rock getting a comfortable stance. Belay on a pine, IV, 35 m.
L4 - Oblique right to get the bottom of an obvious narrow chimney and belay below the chimney (belay not equipped), I, 20 m.
L5 - Climb the chimney, at first directly, then when the chimney is getting larger climb the right face and exit left on a narrow terrace, IV, IV+, 35 m.
L6 - Climb the light grey slabs above, getting a terrace with dwarf-pines and a big boulder at the start of a narrow frame, IV, 35 m.
L7 - Navigate right along the beautiful and aerial frame reaching the base of an obvious chimney-crack, III, 15 m.
P8 - Climb the fine chimney-crack on excellent rock, getting a yellow niche, here oblique right to keep another shorter chimney exiting to the summit, IV+, 45 m

Descent - From the top follow rightward (East) the slopes crossing Pala del Bo on the opposite side, at first grassy then on debris (tracks and cairns). Once getting the base of the wall, head definitely to the right and skirt the base of the wall to return at the starting point of the climb.

Start of Pala del Bo descent slopes
Start of the descent slopes

Pala del Bo, Decima-Cimpellin last but one pitch traverse
Decima-Cimpellin last but one pitch traverse

Majestic view on Pala del Bo descent
Majestic view on Pala del Bo descent

Essential gear

Ropes 2 x 55, helmet, some quickdraws, slings and a set of nuts

Red Tape

No permit no fees required.


Signposts on Passo Duran
Signposts on Passo Duran
Leontopodium Alpinum on Pala del Bo
Leontopodium Alpinum, Pala del Bo
Gentiana Germanica, Moiazza
Gentiana Germanica, Pala del Bo

When to Climb

Best period goes from early June to middle October

Huts

 
Passo Duran
Passo Duran


Passo Duran m. 1605 is the starting point to climb the routes located in the Masenade-Cantoni del Duran subgroup. There are two accommodations on the col:

Rifugio Cesare Tomè
C.A.I. 30 places Guardian: Soro Dorotei Phone: +39043765199 Guardian: Fam. Diego Favero

Rifugio San Sebastiano,
private, 30 places, always open, located just on the pass. Phone: +39043762360

Rifugio Bruto Carestiato m. 1834 C.A.I. 50 places, located at 40 minutes by walking from Passo Duran Phone: +39043762949

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO VENETO

Guidebooks an Maps

 
Guidebook  IV grado e più Dolomiti Orientali
 
 
IV grado in Dolomiti Guidebook
 

- Guidebooks

“IV grado in Dolomiti – Vol. II” by Emiliano Zorzi, Idea Montagna edizioni, 2010

“IV grado e più – Dolomiti Orientali” by Emiliano Zorzi – Luca Brigo – Carlo Piovan, Idea Montagna Edizioni, 2012

“Moiazza – Roccia tra luce e mistero” 163 itinerari in Moiazza by Stefano Santomaso, Idea Montagna 2011

“Arrampicate scelte sul versante meridionale della Moiazza” by Soro Dorotei, 1994

"Civetta - Moiazza” – V. Dal Bianco – G. Angelini Tamari Editori in Bologna, first edition 1970, last edition 1984 (Last update in 1970)

- Maps

Kompass 1:50000 n. 77
Tabacco 1:25000 n. 15

Images

Signposts on Passo DuranPasso DuranPasso Duran, between Moiazza and San Sebastiano groupsBeta of Decima-Cimpellin, Pala del BoGentiana Germanica, MoiazzaPala del Bo, Decima-Cimpellin last but one pitch traverseLeontopodium Alpinum on Pala del Bo
Almost a B/W - Uncertain sunrise on the way to Pala del BoSan Sebastiano group seen from the path to Ref. CarestiatoPala del Bo South faceMoiazza from Passo Duran at sunsetPala del Bo e Pala del Belia annotatedMajestic view on Pala del Bo descentMoiazza from Passo Duran at sunset
[ View Gallery - 2 More Images ]