El Pico de Orizaba (known as Citlaltépetl which means Star Mountain) is a striking volcano. From the west it towers over the town of Tlachichuca in the form of a beautiful white cone. The glacier starts around 4900-5000m and covers the upper aspects of the mountain. Pico de Orizaba is the highest mountain in Mexico and the third highest in North America after Denali and Mount Logan. Orizaba makes for an excellent first experience at high altitude.

One issue with this mountain is the numerous published summit heights that you can find. Anywhere from 18,400 feet to 18,900 feet are claimed as the true height of the summit. With the increased reliablity on GPS numerous informal and at least one scientific survey has been taken to determine the true height of the moutain. According to Stephen Brown, a professor at the University of Texas--San Antonio, they recorded the height at 18, 490.5 feet with a +/- 50 feet. A story about his trip can be found in this article. (page 22)

Planning & Getting There

Planning
The following trip reports give an overview of the entire trip from planning to climbing. Half the fun is getting there!

Informative Trip Reports

2004 Successful trip south of the border

2005 A trip to Mexico to climb El Pico de Orizaba

2006 Orizaba without a hitch

2007 A new high in Mexico

2008 A Dedication to my Family

Getting There Most people fly into Mexico City due to the numerous flight options, but Puebla or Veracruz also make for reasonable starting points. The Puebla airport is very orderly and efficient. A taxi into central Puebla is about 150 pesos. If you stay in Puebla the central area around the zocalo has numerous options for lodging, shopping, dining and sightseeing. Another option is to stay near the bus depot where you depart from for Tlachichuca etc.

Sunrise at the glacier's edge

On the way up

Tlachichuca is the starting point for most climbers attempting El Pico de Orizaba. To get there from the Mexico City airport, you can take a taxi to La Tapo. La Tapo is the main bus station for points east of Mexico City. The cost for bus rides to Tlachichuca is between 100 to 250 pesos.

If dealing with public transportation and taxi cabs is more than you want consider hiring your own driver for your trip. The larger your group the better it is to have a driver. A large passenger van can carry up to 8 climbers with gear.

One transporation option: Jesus Antonio Juarez Guzman 044-55-5252-2404 cell jajuarezgu@yahoo.com.mx

Lodging, Guides, Transporation & Red Tape

Lodging There are a few options while in Tlachichuca. One is Hotel Gerar, now called Servimont. Senor Gerrado is well known in town. They have private rooms with showers and toilets for about 125 pesos/night per person.

They also offer horseback riding, rock climbing, mountain biking, as well as the treking services.

Link to Servimont or by email (info@servimont.com.mx). J.Ortego #1-A Tlachichuca, Puebla C.P. 75050; Mexico 245-451-5009

The Canchola Family

Another fine choice is the climber's hostel run by Joaquin Canchola Limon (cancholashouse@yahoo.com.mx) and his daughter Maribel. We took advantage of the good food, large rooms and transportation. Also important is there was always plenty of hot water. The courtyard/parking lot is great to sort and pack gear.

Guides Either outfitter above can arrange for guiding. If you prefer to negotiate for a guide on your own one option is Roberto who we met while on Orizaba. He comes recommended from the Limon's in Tlachichuca.

Roberto Flores Rodriguez aka Oso oso_expediciones@hotmail.com Orizaba Mountain Guides

Transportation Both outfitters will take you to and from Piedra Grande for approximately 500 pesos per person.

From the town of Tlachichuca (2600m), a vehicle will take you on a windy paved road threw the village of Hidalago (3400m) and up to the Piedra Grande Hut at 4260m on the north side of the mountain. 4x4 vehicles are necessary for the drive due to many pot holes, washboards, big rocks and some huge tree roots.

Standard Transport

On Horseback

Red Tape No permits or fees are required.

When To Climb

After the storm cleared

End of the storm

The most popular climbing season is around Christmas. The dry season is November through March. April and May seem to bring moisture and snow to the upper part of the mountain. Early starts are recommended due to the often cloudy afternoons. Get up and down before early afternoon.

A few links for current weather information:

- Orizaba Weather

- Tlachichuca Weather

Camping

Inside the hut

Pedra Grande

Basecamp The Piedra Grande Hut is a large building that could sleep about 40 people. There is no charge to sleep there. Leaving your gear there is a bit of a risk. The hut is in good condition but shelter is all you get. Any supplies (food, water, fuel) you need to plan and bring on your own.

A small hut, lacking half its roof in 2005 is located about 100m away from the main hut. There is plenty of space to camp around basecamp, which is a good option if you want some privacy.

Highcamp

Who needs a hut?

Another option is to establish a high camp either before the labyrinth at 4500 m or at the base of the glacier at 4900 m. There are several platforms on the moraine where a few tents can be set up.

Supplies

Last chance for water.

Water is a major concern, especially if you are establishing a highcamp. There is a small water source about 500 meters from the hut, but it should be treated or boiled if being consumed. A better option is to bring water to basecamp. Water can be purchased in Tlachichuca in the numerous stores or possibly from your outfitter. In January 2005 20 L bottles of water were 45-60 pesos including the return deposit on the bottle.

Camping above the hut requires a heavy carry of water or luck in finding a decent water source. Setting up highcamp at 4900 m would allow the melting of snow and ice from the glacier edge. Camping lower at 4500 m will be difficult without carrying water up from basecamp.

Beyond the Jamapa Glacier...

Glaciares Orientals

El Pico de Orizaba draws many international climbers; most of who are attempting the mountain via the Jamapa Glacier route. Although technically a straightforward route it does claims lives and should not be taken lightly. At 5000m the glacier begins and at the top reaches an angle of around 35 degrees

For the mountaineer seeking a harder challenge, there are routes on the east and west that provide some more solitude and a bit more technical climbing. A technical route called the Serpents Head exists on the west side of the mountain. It consists of 10 pitches of grade 3 ice.

The Jamapa Glacier route is not the only way up the mountain. The south side is another option. The route time is shorter, both in distance and time, but its also steeper and more sustained. There is no permanent glacier on the southern routes; they can be quite dry at times. There is some possible avalanche hazard on the south side if there has been a particularly rainy summer/fall. The most prominent landmark feature is a huge 25m rock spur just below the summit called the pulpito.

For more detailed information study the Ruta Sur and Ruta Directa-Espinazo route pages.

Another excellent option is to include an acclimation climb or a traverse attempt of Sierra Negra, the fifth highest peak in Mexico to your trip.

Further Info

A great resource of information about climbing Orizaba and the Mexican volcanoes is R.J. Secor's guidebook, Mexico's Volcanoes: A Climbing Guide. For complete information on getting to Mexico and traveling around I highly recommend the Lonely Planet guidebook on Mexico.

Another good site on the web for trip reports and conditions is XPMexico. Click the upper right button 'ENGLISH' for an English version.

It may be wise to buy the majority of your food before arriving in Tlachichuca. The selection is more limited though you can find enough basic ingredients. It all depends on how much effort you normally put into your camp cooking. Mexico City and Puebla have major grocery stores that carry many of the same items that can be found in stores in the US.

Summit Photos

Some summit pictures.

External Links

February 28 - March 8, 2001 Trip Report
Katy Morrison, Dave Morrison, Nick Stoumpas

Images



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