Sahale Mountain, one of the most popular climbs in the North Cascades, is located in the Boston Basin area Near Marblemount. Compared to some of it's close neighbors, Sahale is relatively simple and straight-forward. An elevation gain of 6200 feet and outstanding views of the heart of the North Cascades are sure to satisfy. Sahale Mountain is a fine alpine outing with an airy feel, moderate approach and an easy fourth class scramble to the summit. There are two standard routes to the summit. The easier of the two is the Sahale Arm route. An alternative is the Boston Basin route (see the routes section below). Several who choose to climb Sahale also climb Boston Peak as well since it's summit is only a third of a mile away as the bird flies. Climbing Sahale is very similar to the alps in terms of weather and the quality of alpine climbing. The lower elevation, with peaks in the eight to nine thousand foot range does translate to wetter conditions and a shorter climbing season. Unless you are climbing in mid to late summer, it's not uncommon for the approach road to be covered over by avalanche snow deposit 5 or 10 miles before the trail head. From the Moraine of the Quien Sabe glacier you can see Sharkfin Tower (8,120 ft), Boston Peak (8,894 feet), Sahale Peak (8,680 ft), Forbidden Peak and the towering north face of Johannesburg (8,200 ft) Mountain with its hanging glaciers.

Routes

Sahale Arm:

Follow the well established path from the parking lot 3.7 miles to Cascade Pass at 5400 feet. This part of the trip can be tedious for a number of reasons. If you are climbing during the summer Cascade Pass is a popular hiking destination so you can expect a lot of traffic on the trail. Besides this, according to Eric Hoffman there are a total of 35 short switchbacks before reaching the pass. From Cascade Pass continue 2 miles North-East up the Sahale Arm past Doubtful Lake to the Sahale Glacier. At 7400 feet, near the base of the glacier, there is a good spot for an overnight camp. The glacier is only lightly crevassed but there may be at least one gaper. Above the glacier, climb snow or scree depending on the month until you reach the base of the rock face. There are several short class 5 routes to the summit. Check out a Fred Beckey book for more technical rock information.

Boston Basin:

From Marblemount, drive east on Cascade River road 21.7 miles to the fork. At 3200 feet, follow the abandoned Diamond Mine road for .75 miles and then follow the trail across 4 stream crossings over the next half mile. There are camping sites at a little over 5000 feet and 6000 feet with compost toilets. To get to the basin it is a 3 hour hike on a unmaintained climbers trail. Boston Basin is a very popular location for climbers because of its beautiful scenery and alpine grandeur. From the basin, ascend along the left (North) side of the Quien Sabe glacier until you reach the base of Sharkfin Tower between the summits of Sahale and Boston Peak. Traverse South along the base of the rock face until you reach the col. The glacier is steeper here and be sure to watch for crevasses. Traverse exposed snow to reach the loose class 3 summit scramble. Watch out for a cornice that lasts into early summer.

Getting There

Both standard routes begin at the same parking lot. Drive North on I-5 in Washington State from Seattle, take exit 232 east until you reach the North Cascades Highway (WA 20) in Sedro Woolley. Drive along Highway 20 to Marblemount. An alternative, or known as the scenic route to the place which is almost the same distance, drive North on I-5 until you get to Arlington, then take a right at mile maker 208 to highway 530, for a few seconds you take a left onto highway 9, only to turn back right onto 530 again. From here drive about 25 miles to Darrington, from here views of White Horse Mountain appear, and from here continue to drive on 530 by taking a left which goes north toward Rockport. From here you take a right onto highway 20 which takes you to Marble mount. From Marblemount drive strait which crosses a bridge and the road goes about 21.7 miles down the Cascade River Road. Park at a small pulloff at 3,200 feet. It is right below the North Face of Johannesburg Mountain.

The West Ridge, June 2005

Red Tape

A Permit is required for overnight trips, and they are usually hard to acquire during summer months, so try to get one ahead of time. For information call The National Parks Service Ranger Station at Sedro Wooley (#360 856 5700).

If you're not camping overnight (i.e. one day climb), a permit is not required. Just the forest pass to park at the trailhead. Which is $5 for one day pass and $30 for annual pass. Obtain these at any ranger station or local REI stores.

When To Climb

June - August, this place is very snowy in the early seasons so the approach might present an extra challenge. I also found the road gated once in may. One method that has worked well for me is to bring a bicycle and push it over the snow deposits up to the trail head. With a heavy pack, this makes for a quick easy trip back to the car.

Camping

Camping is allowed and a permit is required. You can camp at the Sahale Glacier which is 5.7 miles, also you can camp before the parking lot at some of the camp grounds along the way.

Mountain Conditions

For information call The National Parks Service Ranger Station at Sedro Wooley (#360 856 5700)

External Links

An Excellent Trip Report
Eric Hoffman at his best shares with us photos and technical route information
Our Sahale Climb in 2005
Early summer climb. A photo essay of the climb up. We did not reach the summit. Stopped halfway up the arm. It was beautiful though
Our Sahale Climb in 2004
Started of with great weather!! We reached the top of the Glacier then whiteout conditions swept in! We had to head down :( I just love the North Cascades.
Mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest
excellent site on the North Cascades and Pickets. lots of trip reports and pics. be sure to check out the crazy videos at the bottom!

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