Overview

• Thanks to om:
  This peak is situated between more famous mountains like Weisshorn, Matterhorn and Zinal Rothorn. Ober Gabelhorn ascent gives nice views on such known mountains.

• Ober Gabelhorn is considered to be one of the nicest Valais mountains.
  There is no really easy way to the summit. The easiest (but long) way from the Rothorn hut is AD.

• Additional Info by Rahel Maria Liu:
  The Obergabelhorn has very steep flanks to each side. The smooth ice face to the north is very impressive. The S face is a pure rock face. It is one of the very few rock faces in the Walliser Alps which one can recommend.

• The 4 ridges are more secure, since they have less danger of rock-and icefall. The SW ridge (Arben Ridge) provides great rock climbing possibilities. The NE ridge to the Wellenkuppe is a mixed route. The SE ridge is not very difficult. The NW Ridge (Coeur Ridge) is only in the upper, snowy part really interesting.

• From the summit, one has a wonderful view of the Matterhorn with its N face.

Routes Overview

• Thanks to om:
  
  Normal route (Wellenkuppe [3 h] and NE ridge [3 h]): AD-
  
  NO ridge (heart ridge): AD
  
  O ridge (Arbengrat): AD
  
  SE ridge (Gabelhorngrat): AD
  
  S face: AD
  
  N face: D+

Getting There

• a. You can come from the Rothornhütte (3198 m).


• b. You can come from the Cabane du Mountet (2886 m).

• You reach the hut in 4,5 hours from Zermatt (1580 hm). You reach the Berghaus Trift (2337 m) in 2 hours from Zermatt. The best way is if you follow the sign in the center of the village. You go over grass to Bodmen and on the northern side of the Triftbach to the Triftschlucht. The way goes through it and to a bridge to the S side. In zigzag you go up to the hotel Edelweiss and the way along the Triftbach, pass it then and climb up to the Trifthaus along the northern side of the stream. Then you go further up along the stream and reach Vieliboden. You go up to the moraines of the Triftglacier and along the left/northern moraine in zigzag to the Rothornhut. 2,5 h from Trift.



• You reach Zermatt (1616 m) with car or bus from Visp/Brig and by train from Täsch. Zermatt is well-known in the whole world as one center of the Walliser Alps. You are not allowed to drive your car in the village.



• Brig is the main city of the upper Wallis and the junction of the trains:


a. Bern - Lötschberg - Simplon - Domodossola
b. Furka - Oberalppass (Andermatt/Disentis, Glacierexpress)
c. Brig - Visp - Zermatt
d. Lake of Geneva - Milano


• In Brig, many busses arrive as well:
a. Simplon-Gondo
b. Saastal
c. Blatten
d. Mund
e. Rosswald



• You reach Visp/Brig by car:


a. from the West: From Geneva (airport) on the A1 to Lausanne, on the A9 via Montreux, Martigny and Sion to Sierre. From Sierre the road no. 9 in direction of Brig. But at Visp, you turn already right to the S in directin of the Saaser valley. In Stalden, you turn right and leave the Saaser valley to the left. Here, the Matter valley begins. Via St. Niklaus, Randa and Täsch, you reach Zermatt.

b. from the North: from Bern on the A6 to Spiez, from here the road to Kandersteg, at Kandersteg, you drive your car on a train and go by train through a tunnel; end of the tunnel: Goppenstein; you continue the road to the S and reach the main road from Sierre. On the crossroad, you turn left (E) and reach Visp. From here, continue as route a.

c. from the East: from Bregenz on the A13 to Chur; turn off at Reichenau and continue the road no. 19 to Brig/Visp via Flims - Sedrun - Andermatt - Gletsch - Fiesch. From Visp, continue as described in a.

d. from the South: either from Como on the A2 via Bellinzona to Airollo, then road no.2 till Hospental and here to the left on the road no. 19 to Brig/Visp or from Arona till the end of the A26 and then the E62 via Domodóssola to Brig.

• You reach the hut from Zinal on the E route (4 1/2 h, 1250 hm, 9 km): From the parking place at the south end of Zinal, you cross a bridge and follow the road on the western side of the Navisence to the S till it goes up. You keep on the road which goes up to the alphut Le Vichiesso (1862 m). Shortly afterwards, you turn right to the new Mountet hut way. You go the road down to the left, traverse the stream of the glacier end (Zinal glacier) on a bridge. You reach the turn off to the Tracuit hut and Ar Pitetta hut (1,5 h). You take the right way and go up zigzag in SE direction, traverse the western hangs of the Besso above the breaks of the Zinal glacier. You turn around the Besso SW ridge via a rock zone below P. 3052m. In SE direction, you reach the hut via lumps of rocks.

• You reach the hut from Zinal on the W route (4 1/2 h, 1350 hm, 9 km). From the parking place at the sout hend of Zinal, you cross a bridge and follow the road on the western side of the Navisence to the S till it goes up. You keep on the road which goes up to the hut Le Vichiesso (1862 m). Here, you leave the way and go up to the Petit Mountet hut (2 h). The new way goes up over the hangs of the Pgne de la Le, around a rock zone at about 2550 m. Then you go down and reach the falling line of the Bouquetins-O-rib which leads to the Zinal glacier via the break. You traverse the glacier in SE direction and go up on the orographically right side. You leave it at P. 2652 m and go up to the hut over the W hang. The ski ascent goes over the whole Zinal glacier. Pay attention to avalanches from the flanks if there is much sunshine!



• You reach Zinal from Sierre (28 km) by bus or car via Vissoie and Ayer (Val d'Anniviers).
  
  
• To Sierre from Sion (491m) in the West of Visp/Brig in the East.

Red Tape

When To Climb

Camping

Mountainhuts

(according to Waeber:)
- 100 beds
- winter room with 20 beds (Dumler)
- serviced: middle July to middle September
- phone: ++41(0)27/9672043
- internet:vs.wallis.ch

(according to Waeber:)
- 105 beds
- serviced from July until the end of September
- from October to June: 50 beds
- phone: ++41(0)27/4751431
- internet: Cabane du Mountet or vs.wallis.ch

General Information and Weather Conditions

Internet:

• Zermatt


• Zinal

• www.slf.ch


Phone from abroad: ++411162

Maps

1:25000 no. 1327 Evolène
1:25000 no. 1328 Randa
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
(to order at DAV Service)

Books

External Links

Images

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