OverviewMount Williamson is one of the great peaks of the Sierra Nevada. It is truly awe-inspiring: rising 9,000 ft from the Owens Valley, it commands ones attention from great distances, overshadowing & overpowering everything surrounding it. Its incredible bulk is matched only by its complexity- steep facesare framed by seemingly never-ending, sinuous aretes; countless gullies & couloirs separate enormous buttresses; spires tower above the onlooker...
In addition to the true summit, the East (14,125') & West Horns (14,160'), the massif's subpeaks, intimidate the would-be climber; while diminutive when viewed from the summit, the opposite is the case when one is separated from the summit plateau by them! Precipitous drops beckon one (or not!) to the voids surrounding them, the sense of exposure enough to make the most seasoned of mountaineers balk. The scene is reminiscent of the Lord of the Rings. Traversing from the summit of the East Horn across the West Horn to the summit plateau requires 5th class climbing (or rappelling; it should be noted that even if rappelling, however, comfort with 5th class terrain should be mandatory here).
The most common way to climb Williamson is via the standard Class 3 West Face route. The climb itself is not overly difficult, but getting to the base of the climb is a different matter altogether. The most common approach involves an 11 mile hike to 12,040’ Shepherd Pass, followed by an arduous traverse of the glacially carved Williamson Bowl. The Williamson Bowl area may look fairly flat on your topo, but it has lots of small ups and downs. You have to weave around lakes and climb up and over many large boulder-strewn hills just to get to the base of the route.
It is important to note that hiking the trail to Shepherd Pass (12,040 ft) is not a casual outing! The trailhead is only at 6,299 ft! In addition, the people who built the trail must have been on crack because parts of it have switchbacks that gain about 3 ft in 100 yds, and at one point it descends almost 1000 ft when it should be going up!
Getting ThereSHEPHERD'S PASS TRAILHEAD (standard approach):From Independence, head west on Market Street for 4.2 miles. Turn left on Foothill Road, which is a gravel road. After driving on Foothill drive for 2.7 miles, you will pass a sign with a hiker symbol on the right and a “Symmes Creek” sign in the center. Keep left and continue for another 0.5 mile. Then, turn right at the intersection where the sign says “Shepherd Pass Trailhead.” Drive another 1.4 miles along a rough gravel road (but still passable with a low-clearance 2wd vehicle) until reaching the trailhead.
According to Charles Altman (using GPS), the distance, from the trailhead, to:
* Anvil Camp = 8 1/4 miles
* Shepherd Pass = 10.3 miles
Red TapeUnfortunately, Mount Williamson is closed for much of the year. The Bighorn Sheep Zoological Preserve encompasses an area bordering the east face of Mount Tyndall and stretches east about 4 miles.This area is only open from December 15 to July 15. This means that Shepherd Pass can be used to access Williamson for only half of the year. The entire south face of Williamson has its own restrictions. It is only open only two months of the year: December 15 - January 1 and April 15 - May 15.
A good blanket statement that summarizes the overall closure conditions is that if you want to summit Mt. Williamson, it needs to be between December 15th and July 15th (i.e. the whole mountain around the summit is closed from 7.16 12.14).
The regions/dates of closure around Williamson are fairly complex, so it is best to consult the Forest Service in Lone Pine before your climb. However, if you want to do the West Face via Shepherd Pass during early summer (no later than July 15), you don't really have to worry about access issues.
This forest service map, which provides a good graphical way of figuring out the closure areas & times, was provided by lavaka (Thanks!).
When To ClimbBecause of the seasonal closures, the best time to climb is during early summer (no later than July 15).
CampingThere are several good camping spots along the trail to Shepherd's Pass. Mahogony Flat is the first camping area you'll get to. It is the first big flat area up the canyon. The most popular area is Anvil Camp, at the 10,000 ft level, 2 miles before Shepherd's pass.
The Sierra Nevada Bighorn SheepThe Sierra Nevada bighorn sheep (ovis canadensis sierrae), contrary to populations elsewhere, are in the midst of a battle for survival. Unregulated market hunting (bighorn sheep in the Sierra Nevada have been protected from hunting since 1878), disease transmission from domestic sheep, & predation from mountain lions have been the largest threats to their recent existence.
In addition, the simple constant stress of survival in the harsh alpine environment, coupled with that induced by human presence, makes their continued existence questionable. It is because of these factors that closures on the mountain are in effect.
Due to their small numbers, there is a corresponding lack of biodiversity- only a herd in New Mexico has less. There are only 5 herds of bighorn sheep scattered throughout the Sierra- one of these is the Williamson herd.
Please respect these & do your part to help this majestic creature survive.
* External link on the Sierra bighorn sheep
* John Muir (himself a shepherd for awhile) waxes poetic about the bighorn sheep
External Links Mt. Williamson's high summit altitude combined with its huge elevation gain mean that under the right conditions (& for those with a penchant for the cold, snow, & suffering) some enjoyable ski & snowboards descents may be had. Check out fellow SPer Sierra Descent's Skiing Mt. Williamson's Bairs Creek Cirque' TR here. Miscellaneous Info' Images
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John Muir Wilderness
