OverviewThis remote “nine-thousander's” two north face climbs ranks along with Shuksan’s North Face as “one of the elite group of snow-and-ice climbs in the range” according to Potterfield and Nelson’s Selected Climbs in the Cascades. The long approach across the Boston Glacier adds to the uniqueness and remoteness of the climb. The North Face and the North Face Couloir are divided by a rock buttress. Each has approximately 1300 feet of 40-50 degree snow and ice climbing. The left handed couloir is slightly steeper and more confining to climb than the North Face and on my visit (during July 2002 to the area) was accessible only with15-20 feet of overhanging technical ice climbing to circumvent the bergshrund.
Getting ThereFrom Interstate 5 in Burlington take WA 20 (North Cascades Highway) towards Sedro Woolley. Drive 47 miles to Marblemount and then get off on the Cascade River Road. Take this for 22 miles to a turnout (elevation 3,200 feet) beneath the impressive Northeast Face of Johannesburg Mountain.
Follow the climbers trail (originally a road to the Diamond Mine .75 miles above) to the vicinity of the mine site and then traverse open slopes. The climber’s trail is wiped out due to a large avalanche slide from Spring 2002. Continue North for approximately a half mile and cross four streams. A switchback trail leads to a moraine at 5,300 feet where multiple campsites and a compost toilet are located. a second camping area is located at 6,400 feet but remains snow covered until later in season.
Ascend the Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston Sahale col. In good weather the col makes for an excellent bivy site and is about 2-3 hours from the base of the north face of Buckner. Ascend the large chossy southern subpeak of Boston and then descend the Boston Glacier and follow its margin along the Ripsaw Ridge towards the base of Mount Buckner.
Another alternative to gaining access to the Boston Glacier is to cross Sharkfin Col which involves some 5.7 climbing and loose rock with a 150 foot rappel to the glacier.
Red TapePermits are required for the North Cascades National Park. For information call the National Park Service Ranger Station for the North Cascades National Park in Marblemount (360)873-4500.
When To ClimbJuly-October
CampingThe Boston Basin area has two camping sites at a little over 5000 and 6000 feet. Both sites have compost toilets. The Sahale Boston col is another alternative for a bivy site - and in good weather has excellent views. A bivy can also done at the base of the climb.
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