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Mount Patterson
Mountain/Rock
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Geography
Mount Patterson 

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Elevation: 10488 ft / 3197 m

 

Page By: dug

Created/Edited: Sep 8, 2003 / Nov 14, 2006

Object ID: 151847

Hits: 1661 

Page Score: 79.02% - 5 Votes 

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Overview

A very striking mountain when viewed from the icefields parkway below the E. Face. Mount Patterson is named after John Duncan Patterson, third president of the Alpine Club of Canada. The Snowbird Glacier is the distinguishing feature and drops precipitously from the upper mountain cirque. This is the route of choice on this mountain and offers excellent moderate ice climbing followed by moderate rock or a snow/ice escape. Usually climbed in a very long day, the descent has a soul sapping marsh to hike back out through.

Getting There

Located along the icefields parkway (hwy 93)just north of Bow summit. Parking is available at the large turnout below the East Face of Patterson. The Icefields parkway can be reached from the east from Calgary via Hwy 1A, or Hwy 11 farther north. From the west you can use Hwy 1 or 93. Hwy 16 (Yellowhead hwy) runs through the parks via the town of Jasper.

Red Tape

No permits are required for this climb. Permits and fees are required for backcountry camping.
This page has a full fee schedule.

Route overview

Snowbird Glacier As mentioned above this is the route of choice. It is the descending ice stream as viewed from the hwy. Two variations exist for the finish.
East Face variation Above the lower ice stream and to the left of the upper ice fall climb the triangular face and follow upper rib.
NE Face varition Stay just left of upper ice fall and follow snow/ice slopes back right on upper glacier to summit ridge.
Barbette Glacier From head of Mistaya Lk. follow glacier to easy W. slopes.

When To Climb

This particular climb (Snowbird Glacier route)has high objective danger from falling ice and seracs (from personal experience!) and is therefore recommended as a late season climb or when colder temperatures prevail. Icefields parkway is open year round so winter access is relatively easy.

Camping

Camping is allowed in campgrounds only.
Jasper campgrounds
Banff campgrounds
Backcountry areas are open to camping. Permits and fees are required for backcountry camping. See red tape above.

Mountain Conditions

Banff web cam
Avalanche conditions
Canadian National Parks Pick your park

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