Precipice Peak is one of the strangest and finest treasures in the San Juans. Located in the sub range of the Cimarron Mountains, Precipice is well known to mountain lovers and locals. The mountain’s unique shape, a great wedge of rock piercing the sky with a dramatic, overhanging east face is unmistakable when seen from the lower Cimarron Valley, or more notably from Highway 550 as one travels south to the hamlet of Ridgway.

Tucked in the Uncompahgre Wilderness, access to the mountain is easy, if a bit time consuming. You’ve been spared figuring out the route through this mountain’s guardians of hoodoos and cliffs by visiting this page.

Perhaps nowhere else in the San Juans, or maybe Colorado, is there a mountain that offers more interesting and varied terrain to climb. Bushwacking, mysterious coves, route finding, steep tundra, talus, slab rock, hard and soft scree, scrambling on knobby rock similar to the Crestones, awesome exposure, volcanic tuff, spires and hoodoos reminiscent of Bryce National Park, as well as a dramatic summit perched on a dizzying overhang are all featured—in less than 2 miles of climbing. The many photos on this page depict these ever changing conditions. Even though the route is easy, it is interesting and exposed. This climb is not for the inexperienced or faint of heart.

Precipice Peak is obviously rarely climbed. Evidence of human activity is slight at best. There are no technical ascents of Precipice Peak on record, although many a climber has likely seen this peak and wondered about the possibilities. Due to the questionable nature of the rock, Precipice Peak’s only current route is a non-technical, mild Class 3 scramble, but your interest never wanes and your attention will not falter as you climb this strange, awesome, inspiring and unique mountain. A climb of Precipice Peak is an experience you’ll remember long after many other climbs have been forgotten.

Precipice Peak from the Middle Fork of the Cimarron River

Photo by SP member jrf.

Getting There

From the junction of Highways 50 and 550 in Montrose, head south toward Ridgway (38 miles) or Ouray (49 miles). Two miles before reaching Ridgway, there is a left turn toward Owl Creek Pass. A large green sign will direct you onto the well maintained road, Ouray County #10. Follow this road through the maze of ranch roads that criss-cross the beautiful landscape beneath Courthouse Mountain. The route is well marked with signs. Follow the road over Owl Creek Pass.

Just over the pass, take the first right turn (a sign indicates “west fork”) and follow the recently graded road up the Little Cimarron drainage 1.3 miles. In a cluster of trees, a modest sign indicating the trailhead for Courthouse Trail will be on the right. Blink and you will miss it. Proceed another mile to the stream crossing on a rougher road and park. If you prefer, drive another half mile to the end of the road and the Wetterhorn Basin trailhead. A 4WD vehicle is suggested to make the stream crossing. The road may require some moderate clearance from year to year. As of Summer, 2003, the road was maintained to the Courthouse Mountain trailhead and passenger cars could navigate it easily. 4WD or high clearance is recommended to reach the Wetterhorn Basin trailhead.

When To Climb

Ascending Precipice Peak

Photo by Aaron Johnson, Summer, 2003

Summer and fall are the best times to attempt this mountain. Early starts are essential to beat the notorious San Juan thunderstorms in the afternoon. This peak would be extremely hazardous in a storm.

Spring ascents would be a challenge given wet and icy conditions, combined with tremendous heights and steep terrain. Access up the West Fork of the Cimarron might also be a factor and add considerable distance to the trip. Rope, rack, ice axe, crampons and some screws would all be useful in such an endeavor.

Winter ascents might be possible, but success is unlikely due to access concerns and immediate avalanche danger above timberline.

Camping

Fantastic camping sites abound in the Cimarron Valley along the road, and all are free. The further up the road you get, the better the camping sites are.

Mountain Conditions

Avalanche Conditions

Telluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather

GOES Western Satellite Image

Terrain conditions on this mountain are extremely varied. Expect loose rock sprinkled on top of solid rock, tundra and packed scree. Climbing on solid, knobby rock will be required. Exposure is brief but massive.

The mountain would be a challenge in damp conditions, and certainly perilous in slick conditions. A climb of this mountain in inclement weather is not encouraged. Visibility is a certain must.

Weather for the area should be checked, but the mountain is visible from Ridgway and it should not be attempted if the weather is obviously questionable from your inspiring vantage in the valley.

Uncompahgre National Forest Web Site

Images



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