Chopicalqui's proximity to the two Huascaran Peaks and to the Huandoy Peaks makes it seem less significant than actual height would warrant. It does not require a great deal of technical ability, but is primarily a snow climb requiring ice ax and crampons and rope. Glacier conditions change and what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses another year. Because it is a not very difficult and is quite high it attracts a fair number of climbers every year. It offers superb views of the two Huascaran peaks, the Huandoy group, and Chacraraju, all of which are close at hand.

Getting There

Chopicalqui is in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, which lies east of the Rio Santos valley. The easiest way to approach this peak is to take the road to the Yanganuca Lakes (see photos below) located at roughly 3800 meters from Yungay in this valley. Yungay is the largest town in the area, but was completely wiped out by an avalanche/landslide due to the great earthquake in 1970.

It is also possible to enter the valley from the east through the Portechuelo de Yanganuca. This is not really a practical option as the east side is very remote. It seems more likely that one would exit the valley through this pass to visit the less frequented regions to the east.

Red Tape

This area is in a national park, and travelers should find out what the current regulations are.

When To Climb

June and July are probably the driest and therefore the best months for climbing. Deep snow and a greater danger of avalanches would be encountered at other times of year.

Time of day is also important; it is worth starting early to avoid being out on the glacier in the tropical midday sun.

Camping

Camping was permitting when we were in the area, but that was more than 30 years ago. If you have up to date information, please add it here.

Mountain Conditions

I know of no websites carrying current weather information, but there may be one. If you are in the area you can inquire in Yungay. It is a popular area so that you area likely to find some one at the end of the road at the Yanganuca Lakes.

Images



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