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Overview

At the final ridge of Imja Tse SE normal route

The next step up beyond hiking is to tackle one of the 18 mountains designated as trekking peaks. The category was created by the Nepal Mountaineering association as an intermediate stage between hiking and all-out mountaineering. They are often close to major peaks, with astounding views from their summits. Climbing them gives you the exhilaration of pitting yourself against Himalayan conditions and altitudes. It is essential to note that these are still considerable mountains, taller than almost anything in North America or Europe. Don’t be fooled by the name ‘trekking peak’ - most classic routes require a little scrambling over snow and ice so make sure you are familiar with the use of crampons and ice axes. The peaks also have plenty of potential for more experienced Alpinists looking for tougher challenges. The north face of Cholatse for example is a serious undertaking not to be taken lightly.

Regulations

Regulations pertaining to trekking peaks are relatively simple. A permit is required which is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association on payment of the royalty fee. This fee depends on whether the peak is in group A or group B. Group B consists of the original 15 trekking peaks and Group A consisits of a further 18 trekking peaks introduced in 2002, some of which shouldn't really be called trekking peaks because they require a solid base of mountaining skills. Cholatse for example was downgraded from full expediton status. The permit simply allows you to climb the mountain and other bureaucracies such as perchase of trekking permits are still applicable.

Fee structure for group "A" NMA peaks
Royalty for up to seven members: US $ 500
Royalty for each additional member up to 12 persons: US $ 100

Fee structure for group "B" NMA peaks
Royalty for 1-4 members: US $ 350
Royalty for 5-8 members: US $ 350 + US $ 40 per person
Royalty for 9-12 members: US $ 510 + US $ 25 per person

Note : Maximum number of members in one team is 12

The Nepal Mountaineering Association have produced a small booklet containing the regulations governing the ascent of trekking peaks. There are certain requirements governing trekking peaks, such as the need for a registered sirdar and for a recognized agency to get your peak permit.

An amount of $250 must be deposited with NMA as garbage deposit to get a permit. This is refunded on the basis of a satisfactory report jointly signed by the concerned team leader, sirdar and climber.

One advantage of Nepal is that mountaineering gear is readily available in Kathmandu - but not as cheaply as it used to be! The Maoist troubles are a possible deterrent to climbing in Nepal. However in general the vital importance of tourism to Nepal is well-understood, and mountaineers are not interfered with, although there have also been a few stories of money being demanded or cameras taken. The situation varies from month to month so try to get up-to-date information before you go.

Climbing Grade

Listed peaks are graded using the Alpine Grade system. The overall seriousness of the complete route based on all factors of the final approach, ascent, and descent—including length, altitude, danger, commitment, and technical difficulty. This system originated with UIAA Roman numerals; it is now generally seen with French letters and is increasingly being used worldwide. Grades described below are for the 'classic' route ascent lines. Alternative routes will obviously be of a higher grade.

F: Facile/easy. Rock scrambling or easy snow slopes; some glacier travel; often climbed ropeless except on glaciers.

PD: Peu Difficile/a little difficult. Some technical climbing and complicated glaciers.

AD: Assez Difficile/fairly hard. Steep climbing or long snow/ice slopes above 50º; for experienced alpine climbers only.

The original 'B' group trekking peaks are rated no more than Alpine grade AD. Many of the easier peaks also have harder routes that are not listed here. Some of the newly introduced 'A' group peaks are technically harder and are comparable in grade to many "expediton peaks"

I have divided peaks in to their relevant geographical areas and then listed them in order of height.

Annapurna Himal

Peak	Height (m)	Height (ft)	Alpine Grade	Latitude	Longitude	First Ascent	Royalty Group
Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak)	6501	21329	AD	28^o34'48"	83^o52'48"	1957	B
Hiuchuli	6441	21132	PD	28^o31'00"	83^o53'00"	1971	B
Thorong Ri (Khatung Kang Fore)	6144	20157	PD	28^o78'26"	83^o92'79"	?	N/A
Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)	5663	18579	PD/AD	28^o30'00"	83^o53'24"	1964	B
Mardi Harmal	5587	18330	F	28^o56'15"	86^o50'01"	1961	B

Thorong Ri

Shingu Chuli

Tharpu Chuli from Annapurna BC

Hiunchuli

Gaurishankar Himal

Peak:	Cherigo
Height (m):	6257
Height (ft):	20528
Alpine Grade:	AD
Latitude:	27^o54'00"
Longitude:	85^o24'36"
First Ascent:	?
Royalty Group:	A

Kangchenjunga Himal

Peak:	Boktoh
Height (m):	6142
Height (ft):	20154
Alpine Grade:	?
Latitude:	27^o37'12"
Longitude:	88^o00'00"
First Ascent:	1991
Royalty Group:	A

Peak:	Peak 5950m
Height (m):	5950
Height (ft):	19052
Alpine Grade:	PD-
Latitude:	27^o80'28"
Longitude:	88^o11'33"
First Ascent:	?
Royalty Group:	N/A

The last few meters to the top of Peak 5950

Khumbu Himal

Mera Peak from the south

Mera Peak's Route

Upper slopes of Mera Peak, with the Hongu Valley shrouded in cloud. The Kangchenjunga massif can be seen in the far distance

Approaching the summit of Mera Peak

Peak	Height (m)	Height (ft)	Alpine Grade	Latitude	Longitude	First Ascent	Royalty Group
Mera Peak	6476	21247	PD	27^o67'70"	86^o86'20"	1953	B
Cholatse	6440	21128	?	27^o91'67"	86^o76'67"	1982	A
Kusum Kangguru	6367	20889	?	27^o91'67"	86^o78'33"	1979	B
Imja Tse (Island Peak)	6183	20285	PD/PD+	27^o92'08"	86^o93'72"	1953	B
Lobuche East	6119	20075	PD+	27^o57'36"	86^o46'48"	1984	B
Kongde Ri (Kwangde Ri)	6011	20298	AD	27^o48'00"	86^o37'00"	1975	B
Khongma Tse (Mehra Peak)	5849	19189	?	27^o56'24"	86^o50'24"	1975	B
Pokhalde	5806	19049	PD/PD+	27^o56'15"	86^o50'09"	1953	B
Chhukung Ri	5500	18238	F	?	?	?	A

Island Peak

Ascent of Imja Tse

Around 5850m approaching the final ridge on Imja Tse's SE Normal Route

Summit of Island Peak

Lobuche East

Kongde Ri

Cholatse

Pokalde

Langtang Himal

Peak	Height (m)	Height (ft)	Alpine Grade	Latitude	Longitude	First Ascent	Royalty Group
Yubra Himal	6035	19800	?	?	?	?	A
Paldor Peak	5896	19344	?	28^o16'43"	85^o11'02"	1949	B
Gamja La Chuli (Naya Kanga)	5846	19181	PD	28^o09'00"	85^o35'24"	1986	B
Yala	5500	18044	F	28^o44'24"	84^o01'12"	?	A
Tsergo Ri	4984	16351	F	28^o38'24"	84^o11'24"	?	N/A

Naya Kanga

View NE from summit of Tsergo Ri.Yala peak on the left and the much larger Morimoto Peak on the right

Yala Peak from high camp

Prayer flags on the summit of Tsergo Ri

Jugal Himal

Peak:	Langsisa Ri
Height (m):	6427
Height (ft):	21085
Alpine Grade:	?
Latitude:	28^o12'36"
Longitude:	85^o42'36"
First Ascent:	1982
Royalty Group:	A

Mahalangur Himal

Peak	Height (m)	Height (ft)	Alpine Grade	Latitude	Longitude	First Ascent	Royalty Group
Ombigaichen	6340	20800	AD/D	27^o51'00"	86^o52'48"	1962	A
Pharilapcha (Machermo)	6017	19740	?	?	?	2003	A
Kyajo Ri	6186	20295	D+	27^o54'00"	85^o40'12"	2002	A
Nirekha	6159	20206	?	27^o58'12"	86^o45'36"	?	A
ABI	6097	20003	?	?	?	?	A
Phari Papchi	6017	19741	?	28^o38'24"	84^o11'24"	2003	A

Kyajo Ri from Machhermo

Pharilapcha

Manang Himal

Peak	Height (m)	Height (ft)	Alpine Grade	Latitude	Longitude	First Ascent	Royalty Group
Chuli East	6584	21601	PD+	28^o42'36"	84^o03'00"	1955	B
Chulu West	6441	21131	PD+	28^o44'24"	84^o01'12"	1952	B
Pisang	6144	20157	PD-	28^o38'24"	84^o11'24"	1955	B

Pisang Peak

Rolwaling Himal

Peak	Height (m)	Height (ft)	Alpine Grade	Latitude	Longitude	First Ascent	Royalty Group
Parchemuche	6187	20298	PD	27^o49'12"	86^o32'24"	1955	B
Ramdung	5950	19438	PD	27^o81'67"	86^o41'67"	1952	B

Manaslu Himal

Peak: Larkya Peak
Height: 6010m
Alpine Grade: ?
Latitude: 28°38'24"
Longitude: 84°31'48"
First Ascent: 1982
Royalty Group: A

Books

The Trekking Peaks of Nepal by Bill O'Connor ISBN: 0898866766

Trekking and Climbing in Nepal by Steve Razetti ISBN: 0811729478

Lonely Planet Trekking in the Nepalese Himalaya by Stan Armington ISBN: 1864502312

Trekking in the Everest Region by Jamie McGuiness ISBN: 1873756607

External Links

Nepal Mountaineering Association

The UIAA - Mountaineering in the Greater Ranges

Images



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