OverviewHigh quality alpine granite in an almost surreal setting, the Third Pillar of Dana sits at the edge of the Dana Plateau with views of Mono Lake thousands of feet below you. One of the more popular routes in the Sierra, the Third Pillar sees it's share of traffic. But it is a relatively short climb with excellent belay ledges, so the crowds are nothing to fear.
ApproachThe Third Pillar is unique in that you hike to (almost) the top before descending to the base of the climb.
From Highway 120 (Tioga Road) park at the small lot just above Tioga Lake. This lies just outside of Yosemite National Park, approx. 1 mile East of the entrance station. Follow the trail around the south side of the lake and into Glacier Canyon. After approx. 2 miles begin climbing the scree slope on the NE side of the canyon to gain the Dana Plateau. Once on the Plateau head East, aiming towards Mono Lake in the distance. At the Eastern Edge of the Plateau you will find the Third Pillar.
If leaving things here, be sure to hang packs/food from one of the many large boulders. The marmots are abundant in this area.
Descend third class blocks, ledges, and talus down the rib that is just to the North of the Third Pillar. Do not descend all the way to the bottom of the Pillar. When the angle changes and the descent becomes less steep, begin traversing towards the Pillar, aiming for a blocky ledge on the other side of the gully. In the early season this traverse may still be snowy. At the ledge you will find a short, right facing corner, which is the start of the climb.
Route DescriptionThis route has a definite alpine feel to it. Short cruxy sections are mixed in with stretches of moderate climbing and comfortable belays.
There are a handful of different variations and ways to climb this route.
For a detailed topo map pick up one of the many climbing guides to Tulomumne Meadows:
'Climbing California's High Sierra' by John Moynier and Claude Fiddler (Falcon Guides - Globe Pequot Press)
'Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows' by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein (Falcon Guides)
or
'Tuolumne Free Climbs' by Barnes, McNamara, Snyder and Roper (Supertopo)
Essential GearGear to 4 inches, with the majority of it being in the 1-2.5 inch range. When to ClimbThis is best climbed during the summer months, when Tioga Pass is open. The Pass typically opens in June, but this can vary greatly depending on the previous winter. In the very early season, it is typical to encounter snow/ice in the gully that separates the Third Pillar and the descent (approach) route. Due to it's Eastern exposure, the Pillar sees sunlight first thing in the morning, and goes into the shade in the early afternoon. Skiing/SnowboardingIn addition to offering excellent rock climbing, the chute that lies on the North side of the Third Pillar offers an excellent (and quite steep) ski descent. Images
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Yosemite National Park
