Allen Mountain is little known to hikers and climbers. That is of course, if you�re not a local or an enthusiastic member of the Glacier Mountaineering Society. If you happen to be one of these people, then you know that Allen Mountain is considered a favorite climb in Glacier, due to the variety of terrain and the unbelievable views. Indeed, Allen Mountain claims one of the most spectacular vistas in Glacier National Park. Given the easy access, this is a climb not to be missed by hikers that have had previous climbing experience in the park.

Allen Mountain is situated next to one of Glacier�s great �tenner� mountains, 10,014 foot Mount Siyeh. A straight on view of Siyeh�s amazing 4,000 foot vertical north face wall can be had from Allen�s higher ramparts, along with unique and stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including the park�s postcard mascot, Mount Gould. Access to the mountain is easy, as it is located directly south of the Many Glacier hotel.

Allen Mountain (left) in Glacier National Park

The climb of the mountain is another matter. The Glacier Mountaineering Society recommends that people be experienced in exposed Class 3 and 4 scrambling, preferably on Glacier terrain, before attempting this climb. Most of the climb involves Class 2 scrambling on the typically loose rock found throughout Glacier, but a section known as �the Great Break� involves Class 3 and 4 options that can be seriously exposed. This climb should only be attempted in dry conditions, and if you have not been in the area previously, executing the route with someone who has done it previously is highly recommended. The GMS group usually includes a climb of Allen during their summer climbing schedule and if you�re fortunate, you can rendezvous with these good folks and climb the mountain with them. The route is short, roughly 7 to 8 miles round trip, and it�s a loop that can be completed in three quarters of a day in good conditions. Some stretches require tenacity, but your efforts are greatly rewarded with a view that is out of this world. To read about the route specifics, go here: The Great Break.

Mount Siyeh, North Face & Cracker Lake

Thanks to SP member saintgrizzly for providing basic text material for sections of this page.

Getting There

Allen Mountain is located in the Many Glacier area of Glacier National Park. Access is through the Many Glacier Entrance on the east side of the park, west of Babb. From the west, either drive through the park on Going-to-the-Sun-Road over Logan Pass to the town of Saint Mary, or around the park's southern boundary on U.S. Highway 2. Highway 2 continues to East Glacier Park, where you can take the winding Highway 49 (with incredible views), or continue on Highway 2 to Browning, at which point you'll pick up Highway 89. Both options lead back to Saint Mary, the main east entrance to the Park. Head north from Saint Mary to Baab on Highway 89. Babb can also be reached from Canada via Hwy 89 or 17 (Canadian Highways 2 and 6, respectively). At the Baab intersection, head west toward the Many Glacier entrance of the Park. Beyond Lake Sherburne, a left turn leads over a bridge spanning the Swiftcurrent Lake outlet to the spectacular Many Glacier hotel. Take a left turn as you approach the hotel to a large parking area situated on a hilltop just east of the hotel and park there.

Many Glacier Hotel, Swiftcurrent Lake from Allen Mountain

All GNP roads are closed in winter, with the GTTS Road sometimes not opening until July (average opening is the second week of June). The road from Babb to Many Glacier opens earlier. Check the status of these roads before departing on your trip. Repeated, and sometimes lengthy road closures due to storms, avalanches, rock slides, are not uncommon.

Map of Waterton/Glacier International Peace Park
Click on the image to enlarge it. This is a good map to orient yourself with the park.

Current GNP Road Status and Information

Plowing of Going-to-the-Sun Road

TOPOZONE MAP 1:50,000 scale

Red Tape & Wildlife Considerations

PARK ENTRANCE FEE
No permits required, but you must pay a park entry fee, which is $25 for one week, or $35 for an annual pass. Registration for day climbs in Glacier National Park is recommended, but not mandatory.

WILDLIFE
Anyone climbing in this area should already know the Northern Rockies are full of wildlife. Always be aware of what�s going on around you, and simply put, do not feed the bears or any other wildlife, and avoid getting close to any wildlife. Do not forget you're in grizzly country! They are solitary creatures and do not take invasion of their space, accidental or otherwise, lightly. Bear spray and routine noise making should be part of every trip you make into the park�s back country. Most of the time, the bears will hear and smell you coming and do what they can to avoid you. Black bears will be found in the forests, but grizzlies are also common above timberline all the way to the summits. They are foraging for food, and your intrusive presence is not welcome. How they respond is completely unpredictable, so it is obviously best you do not encounter them at all. So be aware, and if you see a bear, do all in your power to avoid it.

Improperly stored food in park campgrounds, such as scraps left around your camp, edibles in your tent rather than your car; or leaving your pack unattended for ANY length of time will subject you to a $50 fine. The point cannot be stressed enough: the Park Service is serious about not providing human food to any of the park�s wildlife! Stay sharp, do your part and stay safe!

Mountain Conditions

Climbing Allen Mountain

Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed by both J. Gordon Edwards and the Glacier Mountaineering Society. Anyone doing more than just "trail" hiking in the park should read the excellent and important information put together by Fred and Moni Spicker. Much of the rock in GNP is sedimentary and rotten, and you need to know about it: Glacier National Park Rock & Grading Systems.

Approaching the Great Break

For the described route on Allen Mountain, expect heavy growth timber below tree line involving scrambling and entangling. Expect loose talus above tree line with scatterings of krumholz. Expect loose layered sandstone rock at high altitudes when climbing and check all holds as you climb. Also expect slopes of fine scree varying in steepness. Be well versed in assessing snow conditions if you anticipate crossing any snowfields on this route.

Climbing the Great Break

Glacier Webcams

Great Falls NOAA Forecast

When to Climb

Plenty of snow and ice will be present in Glacier from June to July. Experience in snow and ice climbing skills is recommended. It should be noted that execution of the described route in such conditions would involve rope, rack and crampons at the Great Break, as this is on a north face where ice will linger. This condition increases the rating to Class 5 (see the GNP ratings link), a technical undertaking. The route must be dry to keep the rating below Class 4.

Class 3 climing on Allen Mountain

Traditional climbing season in the Northern Rockies is July, August, and maybe September, when the weather becomes progressively colder and more unstable. The change to winter varies year to year.

Once winter arrives, only well-equipped, extremely competent individuals should attempt this climb. Access is easy, but obviously much more difficult in winter conditions. By a very strong and experienced party, this climb could be attempted, but it is not recommended due to high avalanche potential above tree line. Basically, most of GNP is inaccessable through the winter, and avalanche danger is extreme almost everywhere.

Camping

The Many Glacier Campground (sometimes referred to as the "Swiftcurrent Campground"�$20 per day�no reservations, first come first served basis) makes for a good, quick beginning to the climb! There are numerous campgrounds available within Glacier National Park. At Many Glacier there also are cabins with and without baths, a motel and a fancy hotel. There are showers available, and a restaurant immediately off the Swiftcurrent camping area. There are also many campgrounds�USFS, KOA, and private commercial�as well as motels just outside the park on both the west and east sides.

Click here for General Camping Information, and click here for Current Site Availability in specific campgrounds.

There are many accomodations and campgrounds on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation, which juts against the GNP eastern border, and includes the towns of East Glacier Park, Saint Mary, Browning, and Babb.

Additionally, the park has a network of Backcountry Campsites, which are pretty much a requirement for multi-day treks; some of these are by reservations, some are first come, first served. There are application and length of stay restrictions; it's important to check the above link for relevant information.

Oh my! The Views!

Snow Moon and Falling Leaf Lakes

North Face View

Mount Gould

External Links - Check Them Out!

Glacier Mountaineering Society
A highly recommended expert group to connect with when climbing in Glacier National Park.

Repeat Photo Project
Shows the dramatic retreat of glaciers in the park. A real eye opener!

Glacier Trailhead Camping and Cabins
Highly recommended if you're not the roughing it type.

Saint Mary Lodge & Resort
Lodging, good food, plenty of amenities.

Johnson's of Saint Mary
Camping, lodging, GREAT FOOD!

Two Sisters Cafe

Images