| Ober Gabelhorn 4063m Trip Report |
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| Ober Gabelhorn 4063m   | 
| Page Type: Trip Report Location: Valais / Wallis, Switzerland, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.01222°N / 7.72339°E Date Climbed/Hiked: Sep 13, 2007 Activities: Mountaineering Season: Summer | Page By: Digitalis Created/Edited: Nov 12, 2007 / Aug 29, 2008 Object ID: 356115 Hits: 998 Loading... Page Score: 88.31% - 9 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
DescribingThe Ober Gabelhorn (4063m) is one of the most difficult and insidious 4000m peak from switzerland (normalroute). The Arbengrat is a long alpin climbing tour with difficulties up to 4rd degree. We took the exceedance/cross: Nordeast ridge - Ober Gabelhorn - Arben ridge.
At 5am we started at the Rothorn-Hut 3198m and climbed over the east-ridge up to the Wellenkuppe at 3903m. Already here you have to cope with climbing at 2nd to 3rd degree. From the Wellenkuppe there is a narrow rige to the 'Kluckerturm' which will be climbed over. Afterwards it goes over the exposed and narrow firn ridge, which crosses the north wall to the rocks of the peak. Rocks come after firn and you reached the Ober Gabelhorn 4063m. After around 3 hours we were on the top. (leading time for ascent: 4,5 hours, time in guidebook).
The decision to take the descent of the catchy Arben-ridge came up late and spontanous, because we had still enough time. So we climbed down the Arbengrat into even more difficult areas as in the Nordeast ridge. Do it yourself - there were no abseil places. Soon we reached the Arbenbivouac and after a long run we also reached Zermatt. Finally, at the trainstation i was really exhausted but very happy.
A guide told us an evening before, that the Obergabelhorn belongs to the most sophisticated tours (normal route) in the region of Zermatt. That I just can confirm. But it is a gorgeous and combined tour which offers everything. Just fantastic!
- Difficulty: S / IV
- Route: Rothorn-Hut - Triftgletscher - Wellenkuppe - North-east ridge - Ober Gabelhorn - Arben ridge - Arbenjoch - Arben glacier - Zermatt.
- Linkt about Obergabelhorn: www.obergabelhorn-tour.ch
Written and mounted by Cyrill aka Digitalis
If you have any question, do not hesitate to contact me: cyrill74@gmx.ch
Accommodations- Rothurn Hut 3198m
- Grand Mountet Hut 2886m
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Pennine Alps > Obergabelhorn > Ober Gabelhorn 4063m
