Buster is a great climb for new leaders as the route starts hard and eases off until the steep finish. The minimal approach and location (Cascade Pass) of this climb make it popular.

Getting There

Drive on Route 73 from Lake Placid towards keene. Once you pass the Cascade Mountain trailhead continue until you see a small sign on the right labelled Pitchoff Walls, park here.

Buster is located to the right of Sisters (Left/Right) and left of Boozer.
It is the obvious stepped flow that has a large bulge 20 feet from the base.

Route Description

Buster is 2 pitches and 300 feet long.

Pitch 1 - The left and center of the start is NEI 3, an easier climb is found on the right NEI 2. After getting above the first bulge climb the center of the flow until reaching one of the 2 thick trees on the right to setup belay.

Pitch 2 - Proceed up the stepped flow until reaching many options for a finish. Alternatives rated up to NEI 4 are possible on the left. Following the main flow is NEI 2-3.

Descend the route with 2 rappels.

Essential Gear

4-5 screws
2 long slings

Images