This page replaces a page I adopted in May last year. The page has been completely re-worked, so I've decided to delete the old page and replace it with this new one. For anyone who has signed the climbers log of the old page, you are welcome to sign this new one, however if you don't feel like it I've saved the old climbers log as a custom object here. And if you can write a paragraph with the word 'page' in it more than this one, I'll be damn impressed.

Glyder Fawr (999 m) is the highest mountain in the Glyder Range and the fifth highest in Snowdonia. The mountain is located on the main Glyder massif sitting between Glyder Fach (994m) and Y Garn (947m) and offers some magnificent views with Snowdon (1085m) to the south and Tryfan (915m) and the Carneddau to the north and northwest. Its summit is characterised by a series of highly weathered tors formed during the last ice age when the mountains upper slopes protruded above the ice as a nunatak. In Welsh its name means Big Mound, and when viewed from the south it would seem that the mountain lives up to this name, appearing to be no more than a large rounded rocky hill. However when viewed from the north it reveals so much more. Glyder Fawr is a climbers mountain, its northern slopes are flanked by a series of vertical cliffs and buttresses, which are teeming with both summer and winter routes. It also has a number of quality scrambling routes, and for those who don�t want to hang precariously from walls of rock, it has hiking routes too. In poor weather the ill-defined shape and rockiness of the mountain can make navigation a bit tricky, and the actual summit can be remarkably hard to find when the visibility is down to a few metres.

The Glyders from Clogwyn y Person, Snowdon. The mountains from left to right: Y Garn (947m), Pen-yr-Ole Wen (978m; background), Glyder Fawr (999m), Glyder Fach (994m), Crib Goch (923m) and Moel Siabod (872m; background). Photo by Nanuls

Routes

Glyder Fawr (left) and Glyder Fach (Right) (Photo by Nanuls)

This section summarises some of the most popular routes on Glyder Fach, for a more detailed description of the various routes available I recommend the following guidebooks:

Ridges of Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Scrambles in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Climbers Club guide to Wales: Llanberis
Climbers Club guidebook to Wales: Ogwen and the Carneddau
Rock Climbing in Snowdonia
The Long Routes: Mountaineering Rock Climbs in Snowdonia and the Lake District
Welsh Winter Climbs (Cicerone Guide) by Malcolm Campbell and Andy Newton

Hiking

Llyn Idwal (Photo by BigLee)

From Pen y Pass (approx 3km)

This short but steep route starts at the Pen y Pass carpark and ascends the mountain via a broad spur which passes Llyn Cwmffynnon to the north, before heading in a north/north-easterly direction itself, directly to the summit of the mountain.

From Gwastadnant (approx 4km)

This route begins deep in Llanberis Pass on the A4086 around halfway between Nant Peris and Ynys Ettws. It heads in a north-easterly direction up Cwm Cneifio (not to be confused with Cwm Cneifion which is on the northern side of the mountain), with the initial km being quite steep before easing and then terminating at a saddle which is home to a small pond called Llyn y Cwm. From here the path splits in four directions, with this route taking the southern path around the pond and ascends the steep and somewhat scrappy north-west face of Glyder Fawr,

Traverse of the Glyderau (approx 16km, more if you include Tryfan)

A classic route that crosses the entire Glyder range visiting the summits of Y Foel Goch, Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr, Y Garn, Foel Goch and Elidir Fawr. There is also an option of nabbing Tryfan via its South Ridge if time permits. The route begins at Capel Curig in the east and roughly follows the main �hump� of the range, finally terminating in Llanberis in the west. This leaves the walker with the logistical problem of finding their way back to their car, however thanks to the Snowdon Sherpa bus service, this is can be easily solved.

Scrambling

Bryants Gully (Photo by mountainmanjohn)

Idwal Staircase-variant (Photo by fdoctor)

Cribin Ridge (Grade 1)

The Cribin Ridge runs between Cwm Bochlwyd and Cwm Cneifion to join the main ridge that connects Glyder Fawr with its easterly neighbour Glyder Fach. The route is usually descended as part of the Cwm Bochlwyd horseshoe, but also provides a worthwhile easy ascent that incorporates, if you look for it, plenty of exposure.

False Cribin (Grade 1)

A variant of the Cribin Ridge route which, by careful route choice, can treble the amount of scrambling.

Cneifion Ar�te (Grade 3)

The Cneifion Arete is the most obvious ribbon or rock that rises out of Cwm Cneifion, a deep hanging valley that is nestled between the Cribin and Glyder Fawr. The initial 30m of ascent is more akin to rock climbing than scrambling, although it can be easily protected with a few sling runners. Although becoming more exposed, easier scrambling is found on the upper part of the ar�te which can be climbed in pitches, moving together or solo depending on conditions and the experience of the party.

Maybe Tower Rib (Grade 2/3)

To the right of the Cneifion Ar�te the Cribin flank of Cwm Cneifion curves round in an impressive shattered headwall containing much rock but few distinctive features. Though short and scruffy compared to Y Cribin and the Cneifion Ar�te, the rib has its moments and offers an enjoyable climb for the scrambling connoisseur.

Seniors� Ridge (Grade 1)
Seniors� Ridge is the blunt ridge that extends towards the summit of Glyder Fawr separating Cwm Cenfion from the much larger Cwm Idwal. Although its Cneifion Flank is short and unremarkable, its Idwal side is one of the most dramatic sites in Snowdonia. In summary it provides a devious approach to a broad uneventful ridge which provides some enjoyable scrambling in a grand setting.

Direct Approach to Seniors� Ridge (Grade 2)

A more enjoyable line than the route above, provided through a contrived approach under the eat wall of the Idwal Slabs which provides a simple ridge scramble via a series of open gullies and short chimneys, culminating in an exposed breach of the retaining wall.

Idwal Staircase and Continuation (Grade 2)

The north-west face of Glyder Fawr rises from the shores of Llyn Idwal to its summit in a discontinuous series of slabs and buttresses. This route takes an uncharacteristic fault line in the lower section to gain rough slabs above the rock climbing territory on the lower left side of the face, thus gaining Seniors� ridge with considerably more style and onky a little more difficulty than the two routes above.

North-West Face Route (Grade 2)

This routes provides an approach to Seniors� Ridge which is more open, though less satisfying than the previous route. It takes the buttress located to the right of the Idwal Staircase then finds a way up rocky slopes in the centre of the face before joining Seniors� Ridge below its final rise.

Bryant�s Gully (Grade 2)

Esgair Felen (Yellow Ridge in Welsh), the southwest spur of Glyder Fawr, runs into the Pass of Llanberis as a huge triangular face of outcrop-covered scree slopes. Winding its way through the steep crags usually frequented by climbers is Bryant�s Gully which follows a shallow gully line which extends from the valley floor almost to the crest of the ridge.

Climbing

Cneifion Arete (Photo by Phillip Stasiw)

Due to the sheer number of lines on Glyder Fawr�s numerous crags it would be impractical to list or even summarise them all here. After all there are currently two Climbers Club Guides for specific parts of the mountain not to mention a plethora of other guidebooks that deal with the mountain in more general terms. Therefore rather than attempt to create a full list of climbs, which would be better dealt with on route pages of their own, this section contains just brief details of the main rockfaces of Glyder so that this page can claim to be a comprehensive guide to the mountain.

Cwm Cneifion/The Nameless Cwm (SH 647 585)

This faintly inaccessible little cwm sits high on the eastern flank of Glyder Fawr nestled between Y Cribin and Seniors Ridge. It contains four fine routes, graded Mod to E2, the first being the Sub-Cneifion Rib which leads out of Cwm Idwal into the lower reaches of Cwm Cneifion. The hillside above is a mass of jumbled rock which is more uniform to the east where it leads into the Cneifion Ar�te and onto Y Cribin Ridge.

Clogwyn Du (SH 646 583)

Located in the upper reaches of Cwm Cneifion, not far from Glyder Fawr�s summit, this cliif can claim to be one of Wales� least accessible climbing grounds. Owing to a combination of a long walk in, poor drainage and its lack of sun, the cliffs receive little attention, which is a pity as they contain two of the finest routes on the mountain, the Manx Wall (HS) and Hebenwi (E2). The views from these crags is also stunning, sweeping down the Ogwen Valley and over the distant island of Anglesey.

Cneifion Arete (Photo by mountainmanjohn)

Idwal Slabs and Walls (SH 645591)

Located on the far side of Llyn Idwal, this is one of the most popular climbing areas in Wales, offering routes of all grades including some of the hardest and most poorly protected pitches in the country. The crag consists of a large area of easy-angled overlapping slabs which rise to the foot of a steep wall. Atop of this stands the smaller Continuation Wall. The West Wall consists of a steep escarpment of slabs. The East Wall is a cliff of some 30-60m height which continues the same line as the Continuation Wall running parallel to it on the mountain side. Higher up the East Wall gives way to the Suicide Wall area, which boasts numerous fine routes, which weave their way up the sparsely protected rock face.

Clogwyn y Geifr (SH 639 589)

This cliff is made famous by the iconic dark cleft of the Devil�s Kitchen, cutting its way through the centre of the crag. From the foot of this two synclinal terraces lead diagonally up, one to the left (South Syncline) and one to the right (North Syncline), further subdividing the cliff and providing a safe(ish) ascent or descent for anyone who needs it.. The rock face below the South Syncline is known as the South Cliff and is a rather scruffy, damp, broken and mossy affair, while the crags below the North Syncline (known as the North Cliff, obviously) contains mush cleaner rock and is split into three by two gullies. Although the rock may seem unsuitable for climbing, it�s actually quite firm, although in places it can be friable, snapping under heavy usage.

Winter Climbing

These days winter climbing is a bit of a rarity in Wales, with good winter conditions becoming less and less frequent year by year. However if you are in the area and are fortunate enough to experience a favourable weather, then Glyder Fawr has some of the best winter routes in Wales.

Glyder Fawr (Photo by mtnbiker converted)

Cwm Cneifion (SH 647 583)

Y Cribin (Grade II 150m)

In winter the grade 1 scramble becomes a Grade II climb. It can be tackled easily (Grade I) on its right flank, however the most interesting climbing is found close to the crest (Grade II). An enjoyable climb with buckets of exposure.

Shallow Gully (Grade I 80m)

The route heads up towards Pinnacle Gully and as the ground steepens makes a traverse leftwards to the foot of a shallow gully, some 40m away.

Pinnacle Gully (Grade I 80m)

Easy snow slopes lead into a deepening gully which fans out just below the level of the top of the Pinnacle. It then continues either to the left or, more interestingly, the right to a little col behind the pinnacle.

Cneifion Ar�te (Grade III 150m)

Under good conditions (a bit of a rarity), the ar�te provides an enjoyable climb. Most difficulty is experienced during the first pitch which is entirely rock, however any difficulties can be avoided by climbing the slabs to the left.

Flake Gully (Grade I/II 200m)

A straightforward climb on snow leads to the �Football Pitch�, although two chockstones in the middle section could provide interest under lean conditions.

Broad Gully (Grade I/II 150m)

50m to the right of a wide, open slope gives an easy exit from the cwm, although in conditions of little snow it contracts to a narrower, shallow gully line with a step leftwards through broken ground.

Cwm Cneifion/The Nameless Cwm (Photo by BigLee)

Curver (Grade II 150m)

Immediately to the right of the above route is a slabby buttress with a right-facing, curving corner in the centre, formed by the overlapping slab on the left.

Curver II (Grade I/II 150m)

Some 15m to the right of the above route a parallel curving corner offers a similar, but slightly inferior alternative.

Tower Gully (Grade I/II 150m)

A shallow and gradually narrowing gully that is probably the most obvious winter line in Cwm Cneifion.

Tower Slabs (Grade II/III 160m)

A slabby buttress right of the Tower Gully is often a mass of ice on its right hand side.

Nameless Gully (Grade II 120m)

A broad, snowy gully with one steeper step leads through the lower tier to the terrace, which narrows above a terrace and leads to easier ground above.

Nameless Face (Grade II 140m)

To the right of the two-tier buttress, an area of iced slabs gives an entertaining climb in snow, ice and rock.

Glyder Fawr (Photo by jonburdon)

Corner Gully (Grade I/II 80m)

A straightforward and wide snow gully in the back, left-hand corner of the cwm, which may be corniced on its exit.

Easy Route (Grade I 150m)

A companion route to Corner Gully, although longer, better defined and more popular it takes the snowy depression in the back right-hand corner of the cwm.

Hidden Gully (Grade II 100m)

From some way up the route above, which is the normal approach, a narrow little gully can be spotted running off up to the right, just to the left of the black mass if Clogwyn Ddu.

Idwal Slabs (SH 645 589)

The Nameless Stream (Grade III/IV 200m)

When conditions are favourable the stream may be followed all the way from the hikers path to Cwm Cneifion above, however the main difficulties and challenges are concentrated in the steep upper section.

East Wall Gully (Grade I/II 200m)

A straightforward zigzag up easy slabs to a shallow chimney groove which leads to the aptly named Suicide Wall. The route bypasses the rock via an awkward gully, followed by scrambling and a gully of mixed rock and ice.

Ordinary Route (Grade III 165m)

Frozen Waterfalls around the Devil's Kitchen (Photo by jonburdon)

A central gully on the main sweep of the slabs starts easily and becomes increasingly awkward.

White Hope(Grade III 165m)

Apparently the only true winter route on the slabs themselves, it is a prominent line of leftward facing corners near the centre of the crag.

Subwall Climb (Grade (IV 140m)

The route takes a curving, shallow corner formed by the right edge of the slabs where they abut the steeper west wall. Although there is plenty of drainage in the lower section, the water does not follow the line of the corner higher up; which may render ice axes and crampons redundant in all but the most exceptional of conditions.

Introductory Gully

The route follows the icy treads of Idwal Staircase easing as it rises to eventually peter out into a snowy valley just below Upper Cliff.

The Upper Cliff (SH 643 585)

Summit of Glyder Fawr (Photo by jonburdon)

Oblique Gully (Grade II 120m)

A deep gully which is frequently in condition as it takes a lot of drainage and catches plenty of good snow. The first two steep pitches open up onto a more open and easily angled area where it splits in two. Both options offer enjoyable climbing, and lead up to an awkward and steep chimney which leads to a saddle on Seniors� Ridge.

Narrow Gully (Grade II/III 120m)

The route starts just right of a smooth, gently sloping glacis some 20m long and to the right of the lines of chimneys above. An icy slab leads up to the left into the main line which is followed with interest to the ridge.

Square Furrow (Grade II/III 130m)

Some 25m to the right is a broken, left-facing corner line rising the height of the cliff and marking the edge of a slender, slabby ribs of the Grey Group. The route first ascends a chimney followed by a right hand groove, and onto a broad terrace. A shallow gully continues the same line to the top.

Grey Gully (Grade II/III 130m)

Just to the right of the first slim rib (Grey Rib) a short awkward wall (banked up in good conditions) gives access to a narrow hidden gully which starts leftwards through clean rock to join Square Furrow just below the broad terrace at the end of the second pitch. Finish as of Square Furrow (described above).

Procrastination Cracks (Grade V 70m)

The route starts at a shallow, left-facing groove below the snow bay. The first pitch climbs ice to the left of the groove to belay in the bay. Then traverse diagonally across an ice slab to a shallow chimney. Climb this and exit right to a sloping ledge where a shallow scoop leads rightwards into an icy V-groove above the right hand set cracks. Take an unfortunately but unavoidably poor belay here and climb the V-groove and exit onto a snow field.

The Time-Wasters Finish (Grade III 45m)

Not a true winter route, but logical and great fun all the same. It takes the corner and cave in the steep buttress directly above to finish of the previous route. Rucksacks may prove awkward!

Twisting Gully (Grade III 180m)

Just before the deep cleft of East Gully, a narrow gully can be seen to start some 30m up the crag. The middle section is often very steep and often contains considerable ice, although the upper pitches rather lack line. Start just right of Procrastination Cracks.

East Gully (Grade IV 200m)

The biggest gully on the crag, it is very wet and can be climbed in a freeze with no snow. However it is best done after a good accumulation of snow.

Carneddau from Glyder Fawr (Photo by vancouver islander)

Central Gully (Grade IV 230m)

Past the next rib and at a lower level is the other main corner on the crag; it is bounded by slabs on the left and is rather open and uninspiring. Heavy snow cover is needed of it is to �go� at this grade.

High Pasture (Grade II 230m)

An all-weather outing up the tilted field just to the right. In dry, cold conditions with the security of modern tools, it provides an exposed route up the cliff on perfectly frozen vegetation.

West Gully (Grade III/IV 225m)

Shorter but steeper than its neighbour, it tackles the last remaining fault on the crag, and supports one truly excellent pitch.

Grass Route (Grade IV 120m)

The route starts along the same line as West Gully to a terrace, where after a small descent a very steep vegetated groove in the west wall is climbed, followed by an exit left into the bay of West Gully. Follow the right branch of the gully to easier ground and the top.

Mountain Conditions

This section displays the weather forecast for Bethesda, which is located just to the north and is one of the nearest major towns to the mountains summit area. Remember that Bethesda is around 150m above sea level whereas Llyn Ogwen (where many walks start) is over 300m above sea level, and Glyder Fawr itself reaches 999m. This means that when looking at temperature the adiabatic lapse rate must be taken into account which in Wales is a drop in temperature of between 0.5 and 1�C per 100m in altitude. Exposure and wind speed can also significantly lower temperatures.

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

Getting There

Conveniently, Glyder Fawr is located very close to both the A5 and the A486 meaning that there isn't a long approach to the bottom of the mountain, making it one of the most accessible mountain in Snowdonia.

If approaching from the north or west, e.g. from Liverpool or Hollyhead, turn off the A55 and onto the A5 at the large junction (SH 593 694) that sign posts for Bethesda
and follow the road until Llyn Ogwen where parking is available.

If coming from the east, take the A5 through Bettws y Coed (SH798 599) and Capel Curig (SH 719 580) which will take you directly to the base of the mountain.

If driving from the south, take the A470 through Blaenau Ffestiniog (SH 700 458) to Bettws y Coed, and turn off onto the A5 towards Bethesda which will take you the same way as if coming from the east.

There is plenty of parking along the A5 near Tryfan, some of which you have to pay for, some of which you don't. My advice is to never bother with the official car parks and just park along the roadside. There is a wide 'pavement' type verge on the southern side of the road that can easily accommodate the width of a car or minibus, and is completely free and never full (even on bank holidays). It also allows you to park even closer to the base of the mountain and the start of the path.

There is also parking to the south at Pen y Gwryd and Pen y Pass. Pen y Pass car park (SH 647 555) is located at the zenith of the Pass of Llanberis, and can be reached easily by road on the A4086 that runs between Llanberis (SH 582 598) and Capel Curig (SH 719 580). Owing to the sheer number of routes that start there the Pen y Pass car park often fills up quickly so if you want to park there a very early start is recommended. There is also parking and a good starting point around 1.5km to the east along the roadside near the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel (SH 660 558). Do not park in the hotels car park as this is for guests only.

Y Garn and Nant Ffrancon, from Y Cribin, Glyder Fawr Photo by JoeHarris

Red Tape

No red tape here! Although unlikely it is worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

When To Climb

Glyder Fawr can be climbed at anytime of the year from the direction of Glyder Fach and Pen y Gwryd or via the dominant valleys of Llanberis Pass and Nant Ffrancon, however in poor conditions some routs are best avoided particularly if visibility makes route finding difficult. Of course this all depends on ones ability as a mountaineer/climber, and what might be comfortable for some may seem daunting for others. It is worth noting that some areas of rock, particularly those that have been heavily abraded, can become very greasy when wet.

If your lucky enough to climb the mountain in winter conditions then an ice axe (or ice axes on the harder routes), crampons, a helmet, a rope and a decent winter rack (if going for a more serious route) are all essential.

Camping and Accommodation

There is plenty of camping in close proximity to Glyder Fawr: Gwern Gof Uchaf Campsite, Gwern G�f Isaf Campsite and bunkhouse and Garth Farm Campsite can all be found nearby just to the east.

There are also a number of YHA hostels in the area, the nearest of which is Idwal Cottage, a short walk from the base of the mountain. The Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre in Capel Curig also has a bunk house, and has its own indoor climbing wall if you still feel energetic after your day on the mountain. Also the nearby towns of Capel Curig, Bettws y Coed and Bethesda all have various hotels, hostels, B&Bs and campsites.

Maps

Extract from the Ordnance Survey 1:50k map of Glyder Fawr

Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa
OS 1:50k Landranger Series 115 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa
Harvey Map Services 1:25k Snowdonia: Snowdonia The Glyderau and the Carneddau
Harvey Map Services/BMC 1: 40k British Mountain Map: Snowdonia

Road Maps

OS Road Map 9 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams
The Mountains of England and Wales: Volume 1 Wales (Cicerone Guide) by John and Anne Nuttall
Hillwalking in Wales Vol 1 (Cicerone Guide) by Peter Hermon
Hillwalking in Wales Vol 2(Cicerone Guide) by Peter Hermon
Hillwalking in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Ridges of Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Scrambles in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Climbers Club guide book for Ogwen and the Carneddau
Rock Climbing in Snowdonia
The Long Routes: Mountaineering Rock Climbs in Snowdonia and the Lake District
Welsh Winter Climbs (Cicerone Guide) by Malcolm Campbell and Andy Newton

External Links

Sunset over Snowdonia (Photo by igneouscarl)

Llyn Idwal (Photo by BigLee)

General

Snowdonia National Park Authority
Gwynedd County Council
Local Information from Gwynedd.com
Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net
North Wales Index
Countryside Council for Wales
The National Trust
CADW
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Gwynedd Archeological Trust
British Mountaineering Council
The Climbers Club

Weather

Mountain Weather Wales
Weather from the Met Office
Weather Channel UK

Travel

Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable
Welsh Highland Railway

Accomodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Idwal Cottage
Pyn y Pass YHA
Capel Curig YHA
Plas y Brenin
Gwern Gof Uchaf Campsite
Gwern G�f Isaf Campsite and bunkhouse
Garth Farm Campsite
Dolgam Campsite and B&B Capel Curig

Maps and Guide Books

Ordnance Survey
Harvey Map Services
Cicerone Guide Books
Climbers Club Guide Books

Images



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