ApproachClimbs to the top of the Fortress.
From the Iron bridge north of the tunnel go a bit east until you see KY 77 diverge north for Frenchburg. Park where everyone else does. Strike up hillgoing vaguely westward from Ky 77 fairly steeply. Reach the rock and turn right following its base until a sandy dihedral is found.
Description and Photo of second pitch:
Route DescriptionTwo pitch climb for 120-150 feet.. Climb dihedral to ledge-about 30-40 feet. belay on ledge continue up crack with jamming for about 100 feet.
Lower part is a bit sandy. Second pitch is beautiful and will sew up. Careful when you rap off because the sandstone has big tall over hangs.
Make sure you can reach the bottom.
Partytime first pitch
Essential GearMedium to large friends nuts and hexes. Remember the small tricams for those horizontals. 60 meter rope should work at least if you rappel of the other side farther north. Be careful if you decide to rappel a giant overhang. Helmets are good on rappel. On this rock someone slipped on rappel and was sliding down fast, did arrest and swung into the ceiling on the rebound. Helmet would have mitigated this event.
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