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Pathways Through to Space
Route

Pathways Through to Space

 
Pathways Through to Space

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.56170°N / 118.224°W

Object Title: Pathways Through to Space

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: V 5.10 A1

Route Quality: 
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Page By: poorboy44

Created/Edited: Aug 6, 2004 / Jun 26, 2006

Object ID: 161734

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Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach

First ascent over July 31-Aug 1, 2004 by Stephen Quale and Scotty Nelson. The route climbs 7 new pitches before joining Windhorse to the top. There are 30 feet of aid on pitch 5 (the roof), but this will most likely go free at 5.10+ with some more big cams. The rock is mostly good quality, especially on pitches 1-4. The crux is Windhorse 5.10 OW on pitch 9. On the first ascent we bivied once on the face, and once on the descent.

This route should be considered a "free" variation to Windhorse.

Here is a slightly more detailed description of the approach. From the Stone House, follow the trail up the south (left) side of Tuttle Creek. The trail is tricky to follow, sometimes it goes slightly up the hill, but mostly it stays level. Follow the trail up a steep hill a few hundred feet (loose dirt). At the top of the hill you will cross a small stream and soon after skirt underneath a small waterfall (may be dry). Soon, you will cross a large boulder field/talus chute. From here, skirt the left side of the canyon, keeping left of the main boulder field. Once at the top of this hill, cross the canyon (through manzanita at times) to the base of the wall. There is a stream where you can obtain water. Plan on 2-3 hours from the Stone House.

The route name comes from a book by Franklin Merrell Wolff, who constructed the Stone House in the 1930s.

Route Description

Pathways Through to Space starts approximately 200 yards to the right of Windhorse and 100 feet left of the huge left facing corner. The first pitch climbs an obvious right facing corner located directly below a prominent roof (5 pitches up).

1) Climb the right facing corner (5.7) to the top of the pedestal.
2) From the belay, step slightly right, then back left to climb the right facing dihedral (5.8) to a ledge and bush.
3) Climb directly up the splitter OW crack (5.8) to a ledge.
4) Climb double cracks on the left wall of the right facing dihedral (5.8) to a semi-hanging belay at a bush, underneath the roof.
5) Climb up to, and out the roof to a hanging belay. A0/A1 (or 5.10+ undercling?)
6) Climb up the corner and chimney for a full 200 feet, 5.7.
7) Continue up the chimney to a bolted belay at Dead Tree Terrace, 5.8.
The route now joins Windhorse to the top.
8) Climb the chimney and OW for a full 200 feet to a hanging belay. 5.10, CRUX - bring a #5 Camalot.
9) Climb up the crumbly groove past a few bolts. We belayed at a small ledge before a 5.9 bolt protected move. 190 feet or so.
10) Short pitch past the bolt, then duck right around the corner past a pesky tree to a belay.
11) The double tension traverse. Climb up 50 feet to a bolt, then tension traverse right to a fixed piton, lower down some more and tension traverse over to a triple bolt belay.

Note: we went too low on this and had to leave a nut, however I would recommend you go to the piton, because this is better for the follower. The second followed by rappelling off the bolt with the tag line, and repeating the double tension traverse, while being belayed on the lead line.

12) Scramble/simul right on 3rd class terrain right for several hundred feet to the base of a white dike.
13) Climb the white dike for a full rope length (5.7).
14) Walk left 200 feet or so to a sandy platform at the base of a wall.
15) From the toe of this buttress, climb up to the base of chimney. (5.7)
16) Traverse left 10 feet and up a corner to the left of the chimney. After 30 feet, step back right and climb up the chimney until you reach the ridge. (5.8)
17) Climb up the ridge for a full pitch.
18) One more shoft pitch up and right puts you on top.

See the Windhorse topo at http://www.bigwall.com/windhtp.html

Descent: down the East Slopes, plan on 3-4 hours.

Essential Gear

Climbing gear:
1 set nuts
1 set Aliens (blue-red)
1 set TCUs (blue-orange)
2 sets Camalots (#0.5 - #3.5)
1 ea #4, #4.5, #5

12 runners
2 double lengths slings and locking biners

We climbed on a 10.5 mm lead line, and a 8 mm static haul line (both 60m). We used a Wall Hauler to haul the pack (we just pulled it up with our hands). The pack contained:
1 sleeping bag (for the 2 of us)
6 liters water
2 jackets
2 polypro tops
2 hats
2 pairs shoes
10 energy bars, some dried pineapple chunks and a bag of cashews
headlamps a few other misc tidbits

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Chimney on pitch 7.Stephen leads pitch 2 (5.8)....The South Face of Lone Pine...Another view of the wall from...Stephen at the 5th belay,...Scotty leads the crumbly...Stephen prepares to follow...
Peak 13,016 up canyon. Note...Agony sets in as Stephen...Pathways Through to Space is...I nurse pineapple chunks and...Stephen uses his belay device...