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Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Dos Hermanas Normal Date Climbed: 26th June 2002  Sucess!

Diego Sahagún

2 h 50' ago I've just came from Peñalara. When I reached Puerto de Cotos by car it started to hail so I waited some minutes in the car. 5' after start it was raining, just a reminiscence of the storm, soon it stopped and I reached Dos Hermanas Menor directly. I hiked to Dos Hermanas Mayor when I had a snack. Then I went in search of snow to N face of Peñalara (a week ago I saw two snow patches there), the snow has just melted on Sierra de Guadarrama. Finally I reached Peñalara, the wind was strong (60-80 Km / h) and T = 17 ºC. I've follow PR3 to Risco de los Claveles. Descent was via Lagunas de Peñalara following PR15, last 20' I've hiked wearing my Petzl Zoom.
Posted Jun 26, 2002 5:35 pm

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Right Moraine Direct Date Climbed: 8 April 2002  Sucess!

Diego Sahagún

On monday I repeated Peñalara for the umpteenth time. I hiked first through the right pine wood and then went towards Laguna de Peñalara. It snowed on weekend so pines droped snow and water under the bright sun. Soon I reached the right moraine of the ancient glacier that formed Circo (hoya) de Peñalara, ascended it by scramble and enjoyed lunch over that scenery while I looked for the route I'll going to climb. I saw many gullies or couloirs but I thought they became very steep at their upper sections. Also they were a little far away and the snow was too soft and existed a little risk of avalanche. So I decided to continue ascending there by the direct route. I climbed a narrow mixed gully-crack 45º (with some short passages of 55-60º) and covered by rotten snow. Once I had to leave the route because of slippery wet even steep rocks. Then I passed a more soft section and reached the S shoulder. The summit was a mere anecdote, then a curious anecdote happened: when I was on the bench mark, an helicopter appeared, I shaked my arm to greet the pilot and then the heli landed on a little col between the summit and a rocky outcrop to the North. I faced about and the helicopter took off, that pilot didn't know the international signal code. I continued to Risco de los Claveles then, a little but sharp peak. I placed my backpack on the ground and climbed the narrow ridge to its summit. Then I turned to Peñalara, on descent I got astonished with the formed cornice at the col between Peñalara and Dos Hermanas Mayor. Climbed this one, hiked to Dos Hermanas Menor and Peña Cítores, rested a little and descended to Puerto de Cotos, where I started. Total: 6 hours walking on sometimes half -shank snow and only 3 persons and an helicopter seen.
Posted Apr 11, 2002 5:04 pm

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Risco de los Claveles Direct Date Climbed: 6 February 2002  Sucess!

Diego Sahagún

I have no certainty of how I reached first the summit of Peñalara. It must have been by the normal route (Dos Hermanas) on the early 80s. Surely I went up first on the older chairs wich finished at the today missing snack bar. What I just know is when I climbed last time. This Winter I started walking (with my new boots) at height 1.585 m of M-604 road (a sharp curve at Km 37 more or less). I went almost directly towards Laguna Grande crossing the pinewood. I wore crampons due to the hardness of the snow (early February had cold nights on Sierra de Guadarrama), walked to the foot of the E face. Lunch meanwhile I looked for somewhere to climb directly. Because I had no reliance on that face I continued walking between it and Cinco Lagunas, when I saw a good direct route to the summit. I started climbing with piolet and a telescopic stick. Near the summit I looked left and saw the summit of Peñalara: I was climbing the SE face of Risco de los Claveles. I pushed forward crossing a steep and mixed section, reached Risco de los Claveles (2.387 m = 7.831 ft) and turned left to Peñalara, first along the narrow ridge that links both. Lone on the icy summit of Peñalara at twilight I descended quickly, climbed both Dos Hermanas (2.285 m = 7.496 ft and 2.268 m = 7.440 ft) and arrived with my torch almost directly to the car.

Posted Mar 23, 2002 5:15 pm

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