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Penelope May on the wonderful...

 
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Penelope May on the wonderful...
Penelope May on the wonderful wide crack, the 6th pitch of Uneventful, Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Mts. California. September 2005 Photo: Alois Smrz.

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Dave DalyNice shot, PM!

Dave Daly

Voted 10/10

We did a variation of that by traversing left to right, from above (as seen in the photo). Nice and balancy
Posted Oct 24, 2005 2:49 pm

asmrzRe: Nice shot, PM!

asmrz

Hasn't voted

I have never gone any other way but up this, over the overhangs and right onto the face. That's where Pen is heading in this picture. How do you get to the variation ?
Posted Oct 24, 2005 7:54 pm

Dave DalyRe: Nice shot, PM!

Dave Daly

Voted 10/10

There's a right facing shallow corner about 40 feet to the left of Pen. I forget the connecting route next to Uneventful. BTW, pitch 6 on Uneventful is off on it's rating (this pitch is signatured by two tree.....one bending out ward). Too much detail to write now. We'll have to talk later. BTW, did you see that I ran into Joe over the weekend. He said he talked to you on Friday about the South Face of Lone Pine.



Dave
Posted Oct 25, 2005 1:49 pm

asmrzRe: Nice shot, PM!

asmrz

Hasn't voted

Dave:

Joe, Miguel and I have been talking about trying a new line on the South Face in winter. That would be a big step up for all of us. Yes,we talked Friday. Joe and Megan are good friends of ours.
Posted Oct 25, 2005 2:15 pm

tim_bI've been there !

Hasn't voted

I have been on that pitch when it was pouring rain and windy 02-JUL-2006 from a thunderstorm. It was a little spooky sitting on the ledge by the pine tree, looking up that line, looking down at the V&G book topo that had it as 5.0. No way ! When I finally took off up that line (I had rain gear but my partner, on belay, was shivering pretty bad), there was a piton below the roof that I was all too happy to clip, with wet hands, soaked shoes, wet rock. When I finally got out of there, I re-read the book (hidden in the text) that had that pitch rating as the Uneventful crux at 5.5.

Question: What is the route/line that starts about 10 feet up that pitch, then goes up and diagonally to the left ? (and where does it go?) I went that way (on accident), passing 2 sets of rap slings, usually a bad sign. Being wet, I didn't want to even attempt those dead-end corner overhangy things when I got there, so I backed out and downclimbed, opting for the line in the picture above. Anyone ?
Posted Aug 17, 2006 10:35 pm

asmrzRe: I've been there !

asmrz

Hasn't voted

Tim: The line from the J tree left and up the ramp and over two roofs is a route rated 5.8 (name escapes me, but it's number 29 in the latest guide). Bob Lindgren and I just climbed this 5.8 route last Thursday. The start is very hard (much harder that .8)in an unprotected off-witdth directly on the prow of the N.Buttress and the line follows on the Buttress at 5.6-5.7 until the next crux over these roofs left of Uneventful. The crux is again hard, harder than 5.8 and not much pro. It eases above the second roof, slants right and meets the Uneventful above the Sahara Terror Gully. The route was climbed in 1997, unfortunatelly I'm terrible with names and don't remember it. Since I'm too cheep to buy the latest Guide Book (I have too many already) some of our SP friends might help us with the name. Cheers, Alois. PS. I think even the 5.5 rating is a bit mild for the crux Uneventful pitch, especially the face move to the right at the top.
Posted Aug 18, 2006 6:34 pm

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asmrzSubmitted by asmrz
on Oct 23, 2005 5:48 pm

Image ID: 132400
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Lat/Lon: 33.76000°N / 116.682°W
Object Title: Penelope May on the wonderful...