Perrenoud route (Chli Bielenhorn) : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Perrenoud Route (Chli Bielenhorn)

On the granite's fine wall facing South of Chli Bielenhorn runs a pleasant and very intersting classic route following a corners'logical line in the middle sector of the face; rock is the well known and excellent Furka granite.

Getting There

Chli Bielenhorn South face seen from the approach's trail

ROAD ACCESS

From Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard tunnel northern exit, follow the road to Furkapass (m.2429), reaching Hospental and Realp. 2,5 km. after the small settlement of Tiefenbach along the route to Furka Pass, in a pull-out near a little river before the road is turning left (m. 2279).

WALKING ACCESS TO THE ROUTE

From the pull out along the Furkapass road a good trail starts, leading to Sidelen Hut; to rise directly to the wall without reaching the hut, at a terrace after half an hour of walking, leave the main trail to the hut on the left-hand side and rise along a steep trail heading toward the obvious wall, crossing the Nepali Highway Trail. Follow it for a few meters, then rise along a steep blocks’ slope, leading to the bottom of the wall. (1 hour from the pull-out).

Route Description

A belay along the corners'system

The Untere Bielenlucke m. 2900 and the Sidelen Hut in the background

PERRENOUD ROUTE (CHLI BIELENHORN) - French scale

Summit altitude: m. 2940
Difficulty: TD, F6a+ (or F6a with one A0 move)
Climbing length: 220 m.
Exposure: S
First ascent: Perrenoud – Mouttet 1957
Starting point (direct approach): 2,5 km. after the small settlement of Tiefenbach along the route to Furka Pass, in a pull-out near a little river before the road is turning left (m. 2279)
Hut: Sidelen Hutte SAC m. 2708, open from middle june to middle october

PERRENOUD ROUTE REPORT

It’s suitable to climb the route directly from the parking along Furkapass road; alternatively it’s also possible overnight at Sidelen Hutte SAC (Swiss Alpin Club) m. 2708.

From the pull out along the Furkapass road a good trail starts, leading to Sidelen Hut; to rise directly to the wall without reaching the hut, at a terrace after half an hour of walking, leave the main trail to the hut on the left-hand side and rise along a steep trail heading toward the obvious wall, crossing the Nepali Highway Trail. Follow it for a few meters, then rise along a steep blocks’ slope, leading to the bottom of the wall. (1 hour from the pull-out).

The route starting point is situated below a chimney near an obvious spur. The route is equipped, but it's necessary to integrate the equipment with some friends and nuts.

L1 - Climb a chimney reaching a good stance out the chimney. F4c, 25 m.
L2 - Climb a corner. F5a, 25 m.
L3 - Another corner. F5b, 25 m.
L4 - Another pitch leading to a stance below an overhanging flake. F5b, 27 m.
L5 - Climb the flake, then a little smooth overhang (crux). F6a+, A0, 28 mt.
L6 - From the stance climb directly, then traverse left reaching a stance over a ledge. F6a, 30 m.
L7 – Climb a smooth slab over the stance, then traverse right reaching a large corner. Up along the corner with hard and beautiful climb. An ending crack leads to the stance.
L8 - A last corner and easier rocks lead to the last belay.
Scramble on to the summit.

Descent: from the summit head toward NW, reaching the Untere Bielenlucke, a rocky saddle between Chli Bielenhorn and the characteristic monolith named Kamel. From here scramble on a scree gully heading toward the unmistakable modern construction of Sidelen Hut.