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Peternpfad and Dachlgrat

 
Peternpfad and Dachlgrat

Page Type: Route

Location: Ennstal Alps - Gesaeuse, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.56220°N / 14.63270°E

Object Title: Peternpfad and Dachlgrat

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: UIAA II also in a descent

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Aug 30, 2003 / Aug 28, 2010

Object ID: 158698

Hits: 3852 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach

 
The Hochtor map.
Hochtor and its routes

This route ascends Hochtor from the North. In the main valley (by the river Enns) the trailhead is on a big parking place (altitude cca 600m), Haindlkar. A good marked path leads towards the South to Haindlkarhuette, 1121m (1h 15min).

The majority will probably sleep here. But if you proceed by the marked path, named Peternpfad towards the East, you will after less tahn an hour reach the NW wall of Hochtor. Just among the last larches, approximately 50 meters above the path you will find a good, flat place for two persons, where you can spend the night. So next day you can start a bit earlier, and sleeping in nature is more beautiful anyway.

 
From Haindlkarhuette
Rosskuppe_Hochtor
 
Hochtor north wall in the...
NW walls
 
Evening in the bivouac under...
The evening

Route Description

 
Below Rosskuppe
Below Rosskuppe
 
The access to the entry of...
Route entry

Peternpfad enters the NW wall of Rosskuppe, 2152 m and Hochtor in a steep gorge, but the route soon exits it and climbs over the rocks left of it. Difficulties are constantly in the range between I. and II., the route is marked, but not secured with any kind of steel. So you climb over pasages, by ledges and after some 30 minutes the route turns left, out of the wall and reaches a beautiful balcony, from which the Enns valley can be clearly seen. Now a steep part comes again, overcoming it you find yourself under steep walls, but the route goes leftwards around the corner and exits by a comfortable ledge on a wide, grassy Peternscharte, 2040 m. Till here over the wall 1 h 30 min.

On Peternscharte you turn sharply right, where on the first rocks you see red marks. You proceed below these rocks, by the ridge and over the next rocky barrier (II. degree) and scree reach the sharp Rosskuppe, 2152m. The further route is clearly ahead of you.

 
On the beautiful Dachlgrat...
Dachlgrat
 
From the summit of Hochtor -...
Dachlgrat

First you need to descend down to Dachlgrat. This descent is exposed and requires climbing II. degree downwards (belaying?). The Dachlgrat is a beautiful carst formation. Not very steep compact ridge is falling towards NW almost vertically some 800 m in Haindlkar and much less steep towards SE. The ridge is all erased, carved by water. Climbing it is easy - you just go upright over it. The next peak in the ridge you don't need to ascend, the route traverses on the left (SE) side again.

Over some scree the route now reaches the summit rocks. Climbing in II. degree starts again. So you gain height and the route uses ledges also to find the best passages. On one place a ledge is narrow and an overhanging rock makes you go on your knees. There a small rucksack is a great benefit. After this "Passo gel Gatto" (like on Monte Pelmo) the rock soon becomes easier, you gain height and soon see people on the main summit. But before reaching the top, you must reach the fore summit and then descend a little to the notch between both of them.

Essential Gear

For the whole route walking poles are recommendable, in the climbing part they go on your rucksack, of course. Depending on your climbing skills you might also need a 20 m rope. On the day we climbed Hochtor only one party out of four or five used it.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

On the beautiful Dachlgrat...Evening in the bivouac under...The crux of the Peternpfad is...From HaindlkarhuetteHochtor north wall in the...Below RosskuppeIts difficult to explain the...
The summit of Hochtor, seen...From the summit of Hochtor -...On the ridge there are some...The access to the entry of...The Hochtor map.