Learning Ice?

Flatlander2climb · Joined: 15 Apr 2009 Posts: 15

Hey all, I have a quick question for those of you who are experienced ice climbers. I've been fascinated by climbing for almost a year now, but since I live in KS, go to KSU and have an intense major I haven't had the opportunity to really get out and do much in the way of actual climbing. Went to Ouray this summer and thoroughly enjoyed it, but didn't get to really do much hiking or anything like that as I was there with the mom and brother. Bro might've been up for it but my mom's not quite as outdoorsy as us so hiking to the top of Ophir pass was the extent of the hiking/climbing.

Anyway, seeing all the pictures of ice climbers there in Ouray, and some of the researching I've done since (bought a how to book about ice climbing this summer after returning....been reading that and checking out sites, etc.) I've become interested in ice and I've been trying to figure out the best way to go about learning to ice climb (and mountaineering in general....I know there are differences there). I've heard alot about the Ouray Ice Festival and the low cost clinics there, and I've checked out what it would cost to take full classes through Mountain Madness, San Juan Mountain Guides, or eventually RMI (I'm an Interior Design major and KSU's school is ranked highly so I've been entertaining trying to get internships/jobs in the Seattle area as much for the quality and number of firms up there as the opportunity to be close to the climbing/hiking in Cascades!...and of course the easier access from Seattle to points more distant like Alaska and maybe someday the Himalaya.....but that's just a dream right now of course Smile

). My point is, I guess, I was wondering if any of you more experienced climbers could recommend a good way to get into it? What's the best route to go as far as learning and acquiring equipment? I know equipment is expensive generally speaking so I've been unsure whether to rent equipment as I learn and buy later, or buy first?

Thanks and happy climbing!

benjamingray · Joined: 24 Jan 2004 Posts: 250

mconnell · Joined: 03 Jul 2001 Posts: 6966

Best way to get into it is to find someone that will take you and and teach you a few things. If you don't know anyone to climb with, taking a class is a good way to get started.

Personally, I would advise against going to the Ice Festival with the idea of climbing. Way too many people around to get much climbing in. Based on a college schedule, the best time to go would probably be after the first of the year but before being due back in school.

funkyicemonkey · Joined: 07 Nov 2009 Posts: 8

This is my first post, so hello all. Yes, go to the fest. It will be terrific, see lectures, camp in the freezing cold, meet other like minded people and just enjoy yourself. Show up with good boots, a helmet, harness (maybe crampons if you borrow) and a few dollars to buy people beer and you will get a few rides on ropes. We Ice climbers are a different breed, it really is about fun and the people you meet. If you find yourself with people who prattle on about all the shiny equipment and the evil dangers and the mind games - RUN AWAY - the macho tend to be there for all the wrong reasons. I plan to go, that is if my wife hasn't given birth yet, and I will happily lend you gear.

As for learning, find someone who is safe and learn from them, then find someone better etc etc. Its not that complex and a lot safer these days (compare a Warthog to a BD ice screw!). Oh - and go leashless if you can. By the way never forget that it is an uncomfortable sport. Good Luck and enjoy.

funkyicemonkey · Joined: 07 Nov 2009 Posts: 8

This is my first post, so hello all. Yes, go to the fest. It will be terrific, see lectures, camp in the freezing cold, meet other like minded people and just enjoy yourself. Show up with good boots, a helmet, harness (maybe crampons if you borrow) and a few dollars to buy people beer and you will get a few rides on ropes. We Ice climbers are a different breed, it really is about fun and the people you meet. If you find yourself with people who prattle on about all the shiny equipment and the evil dangers and the mind games - RUN AWAY - the macho tend to be there for all the wrong reasons. I plan to go, that is if my wife hasn't given birth yet, and I will happily lend you gear.

As for learning, find someone who is safe and learn from them, then find someone better etc etc. Its not that complex and a lot safer these days (compare a Warthog to a BD ice screw!). Oh - and go leashless if you can. By the way never forget that it is an uncomfortable sport. Good Luck and enjoy.

MarthaP · Joined: 31 May 2008 Posts: 1222

MarthaP · Joined: 31 May 2008 Posts: 1222

Rocker Paully · Joined: 14 Jun 2006 Posts: 369

Here's my 2 cents: ICE CLIMBING IS FUN, DO IT!!!

mtnclimber101 · Joined: 24 Oct 2005 Posts: 54

Before you ever get on the ice, my suggestion would be to go sell 2/3 of your belongings, divorce your wife (or lose the girlfriend) they will leave you once you start climbing anyway Laughing

and then go down to the local crack house and start taking drugs.....................because once you start ice climbing your life will be just as worthless as the rest of us who climb, and doing drugs is generally more socially acceptable and cheaper than ice climbing....LOL
Ouray is a great place to start, if you can get there, because they have super easy ice access and great guides / courses to teach you the correct techniques. If you are lucky enough to live in a place where someone actually teaches ice climbing, it is worth the money for the first time. (But since you are in Kansas, you are screwed). The ice festival is an awesome way to meet lots of climbers and see some great technique.
If you do like nearly everyone else on the planet, you will go with some friends and hang off a top-rope for several trips. This works equally well, but may take longer to learn the little tricks to make it easier--and is definitely easier on the wallet, because if you are on a top rope, you can use someone else's gear before laying out the second mortgage for your own gear.
As far as getting gear goes, unless you are independently wealthy or just won the lottery, beg borrow and/or steal gear from anyone possible until you have gone a few times. This will let you get a feel for different gear designs. You will find that different brands work better or worse for different people, and no matter what, ice gear is expensive!!!
Used, older gear works just fine until you get a little better--unless you are a gear junkie--then just keep writing checks....like i said, just start doing drugs because it's cheaper Shocked

I would suggest trying leashless, but use leashes to start--if you don't cinch them onto your wrists, but keep your hands in the loops, you are essentially climbing leashless, but WHEN you get pumped out and drop a tool (not if, but when--it will happen) you can still have a good climb and your belayer will appreciate not having a tool dropped on their head. When you are just starting out, you will knock plenty of ice on them anyway.
The BEST way to get started?......JUST GET OUT AND DO IT!!

peladoboton · Joined: 04 Sep 2006 Posts: 1611

funkyicemonkey · Joined: 07 Nov 2009 Posts: 8

I think I read an article a while back about someone who hung a hose from a grain silo... Just a thought.

Joe White · Joined: 14 Jun 2007 Posts: 142

iceisnice · Joined: 21 Feb 2005 Posts: 580

iceisnice · Joined: 21 Feb 2005 Posts: 580

iceisnice · Joined: 21 Feb 2005 Posts: 580

Oh, one more thing about the gear.....don't believe the stuff about finding "the right tool for you". Just buy anything and learn how to use it. Yeah, tools are different and require different style of swings....but seriously, you can climb on anything. Most of the new tools are all hype. Its about the climber....noth the gear.