Matterhorn Peak in the Sawtooth Ridge - Kerouac inspiration

[MTN Trader]

My first post here - and its a question about Matterhorn Peak, along the northern border of Yosemite National Park.

I am intrigued by the account of Jack Kerouac's hike with Gary Snyder to the summit of Matterhorn as described in "Dharma Bums." I'd love to replicate this hike myself at some point, but upon referral to the Tom Harrison map of the area, the only trail nearby seems to originate at the Twin Lakes area by Mono Village Resort, and goes through Burro Pass, but doesn't go up the mountain. Does anyone have any guidance about an appropriate trail (if any) that leads through what the book describes as "The Valley of Boulders?"

Strictly speaking, I am also not quite sure whether the book describes an approach from the north or from the south, and if the permitting requirement is different depending on the approach. However, the narrative implies that it is a relatively low-tech climb, for which crampons, ice-axe, aren't generally necessary.

I acknowledge that there may have been some poetic license and embellishment in Dharma Bums, and Kerouac didn't actually make it to the summit, but I'm highly intrigued, and I'd love for this to be my first 12,000+ foot climb. If anyone has advice on routes, equipment needed, time required, or other advice/warnings, I'd much appreciate it.

Thanks, Charles

[Bob Burd]

It seems likely he climbed via Horse Creek Pass out of Twin Lakes. There is a use trail that goes most of the way. Check out the <a href=http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150488/matterhorn-peak.html>Matterhorn page</a> on SP for tons of info on climbing this peak.

[Deleted User]

I agree with Bob on that it is the trail from Horse Creek, and I will add that Kerouac's description is one of the best that I have seen in mountaineering literature. This is, however, my $.02.

[Travis_]

I also want to do this climb after reading "Dharma Bumbs". Have done a little research and am planning to do it next summer, bringing along my copy of the book, some bulgur wheat and my hopes for inspiration

Maybe we could get a group togther,

Here is a Topo I downloaded:

http://www.summitpost.org/image/235862/150488/matterhorn-peak-topo.html

[1000Pks]

I'd love to day climb Matterhorn for my 3X sometime, and by coincidence, was doing research on some lookout trails up by the North Cascades for some peaks to do last summer. Kerouac and Gary Snyder (local poet) had both spent time working as lookouts for the USFS on Desolation Peak and Sourdough Mountain, some big gain trail hikes above Diablo Lake. The views are supposed to be great, although I didn't do any of them. I found they are lookouts, not peaks with definite highpoints to bag. And with at least 5,000' gain.

Never a big fan of "beat" literature, I see both were into Zen (again I am not a disciple), and even though I lived in Berkeley while going to school, you wouldn't catch me spending much time at the now defunct Cody's Books (lived two blocks away). Although I also used to pass the other City Lights (?) bookstore on hikes through North Beach.

Well, should you be doing research on Kerouac, count me interested in doing those North Cascades lookouts, too, sometime. Not much here on SP, but those peaks seem all to be the center of some major karma, or something. I'd be wanting to shutter some great images, and get some good exercise. Adds a touch of literary interest to these summits, with some history (modern English Lit was never my big interest, too).

[Deleted User]

For those interested...

As many people know, Snyder (aka Japhy Rhyder) got Kerouac interested in Zen via their trip to Matterhorn Peak. It must be remembered that Kerouac was from the East Coast, so this trip with Snyder, was essentially, his first trip into the "wilderness." What I find so striking, not just from the literary point of view, but the "climber's" point of view as well, is the sheer excitement that Kerouac exhibits. I know that as a young child, my first trip to Mono Village, resting underneath the very "serious" Matterhorn Peak, gripped me in such a way that few places ever have.

Ironically, it was this same trip that got Kerouac interested into being a fire lookout like Snyder. Some literary critics, the few who actually study Kerouac, will debate that the 60 days of sobriety on top of Desolation is what "broke" Kerouac's spirit, because when he came off the mountain, he hit the bottle harder than ever before.

And to further what 1000peaks stated, both Matterhorn and the Northern Cascades, e.g. Sourdough and Desolation, do hold some "otherness" that draws people towards their summits.

[Alpinist]

The shortest/easiest route to the summit is the Southeast Slope, which is rated class 2. The trail disappears a bit through the boulder field near Horse Creek Pass and the hike becomes moderately difficult, but there is no technical climbing required.

[bennovak]

I have read the book and day hiked this mountain. I am fairly certain the route he took was from Mono Village up over Horse Creek pass and the up the southern slopes. I think the valley of boulders he refers to is pretty high up in the Horse Creek drainage where the vegetation begins to run thin. When you hike up this route the book will really come to life.

[MCGusto]

Dharma Bums is one of my favorite books. Tried to read Desolation Angels after reading "Bums," but didn't find it nearly as interesting, especially his esoteric ramblings while on Desolation Peak. Yikes.

Been thinking about Matterhorn Peak ever since I read Dharma Bums.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure there is some information on climbing the peak in the Falcon Guide "Climbing California's Mountains: Hikes and Scrambles."

Maybe we should all get together sometime and pay tribute to 'ol Keroauc and his crazy Zen ways... try to do without the lightning storm, though.

Gusto

[Deleted User]

I taught Desolation Angels to an advanced Freshman Comp class. While the students did read the book, very few chose to write on it for their research paper. Kerouac's zen ramblings throughout the section entitled "Being In The World" clearly show his (mental) breakdown while on top of Desolation Peak. While I agree with the analysis that DA is not as interesting as DB, I cannot help but think of the breakdown that Kerouac is beginning to endure.

[Eric O]

Breakdown? That was a breakthrough!

[Deleted User]

Breakdown being relative to his alcoholism.

[MCGusto]

Breakdown or breakthrough... Keroauc was amazing.

Every time I'll trolling around California I think about him bumming along and finding his way. Maybe taking an express route on the "Midnight Ghost" or something. It's pretty wild to be in San Francisco or Big Sur or wherever and try to look at those places through Kerouac's eyes! Sometimes it's a little freaky.



Gusto