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any recent Sierra couloirs info?

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 Author Topic: any recent Sierra couloirs info?
d_shorb


Joined: 08 Apr 2004
Posts: 367

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 12:27 am GMT  Quote
 
Idea Question any recent trips up sierra couloirs: North Peak, Dana, feather, split mtn. etc. Question Idea
sharperblue


Joined: 06 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:02 am GMT  Quote
 
i was on Feather Peak via Pine Creek yesterday - having only a raven and standard crampons with me, i took the south-east col, which had about 1" of slush on top of the ice below - the Feather col to the north is in fine form. pic:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblue/1317185006/

also, the ice col on Red Slate Mountain a bit further north looked fantastic, for what a view from fifteen miles away is worth ;p
d_shorb


Joined: 08 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:16 pm GMT  Quote
 
thanks sharperblue, for your feather info. Something I'll keep in mind for sure!
forjan


Joined: 24 Sep 2001
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 3:28 pm GMT  Quote
 
d_shorb wrote:
Idea Question any recent trips up sierra couloirs: North Peak, Dana, feather, split mtn. etc. Question Idea


Here is how Dana Couloir looked on August 18th (mostly neve with some ice).
Here is how Feather Couloir looked on August 26th (again, neve with some ice.

My guess is that the right couloir of North Peak is probably ice by now. I know someone who will be up there this weekend. I'll find out conditions and post next week.

--Miguel
ridgeline


Joined: 02 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:47 pm GMT  Quote
 
How about Kindergarten Gully for us beginners? Is it worth using ice tools or is it an axe and crampon chute, or a scree slog right now. Thanks for any info

Last edited by ridgeline on Wed Sep 05, 2007 4:54 am; edited 1 time in total
d_shorb


Joined: 08 Apr 2004
Posts: 367

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:35 am GMT  Quote
 
forjan wrote:
Dana Couloir looked on August 18th (mostly neve with some ice).
Here is how Feather Couloir looked on August 26th (again, neve with some ice.

My guess is that the right couloir of North Peak is probably ice by now. I know someone who will be up there this weekend. I'll find out conditions and post next week.

--Miguel


Thanks for the pics. I'm psyched. Just learned my friends don't have their tools, so if you could rally a partner for me. . . .
The Chief


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:40 am GMT  Quote
 
When are you coming to my neck of the couloirs?
hucksquaw


Joined: 12 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 3:37 am GMT  Quote
 
anyone have some recent pics of the thompson couloirs? thunderbolt?
The Chief


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 4:04 am GMT  Quote
 
hucksquaw wrote:
anyone have some recent pics of the thompson couloirs? thunderbolt?

Gilbert, Thompson(Knutson, Smrz, Harrington) and Moynier early last month...



Ice Nine and The Right Side of Mendal and Darwin two weeks ago...
ridgeline


Joined: 02 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 4:55 am GMT  Quote
 
Checkered Demon?
physics


Joined: 22 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:36 pm GMT  Quote
 
both the couloirs on Feather peak (Feather Couloir and the southeast couloir) are in. We soloed up the SE couloir first (easy AI 0.5, then downclimbed it) then the Feather couloir the next day. here's the easy SE couloir, I'd say about 250-300 feet of low angle ice:




The Feather Couloir (north couloir) we found 95% of it to be ice, bottom was dirty, with the top 60% to be hard dinner-plating ice. We climbed it in 2 pitches running-belay using 7 screws and a couple nuts for each pitch, then decended the SE couloir again. The couloir is not steep and currently there are many depressions/irregularities in the smoothness of the ice making for very easy climbing. here's the pics to show the conditions:


The Chief


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:51 pm GMT  Quote
 
You call this, the Royce/Feather Col, in????
C'mon lad... Hell, 2/3rds of it is gone!
My Rap Stations that I put in last season, are in the DIRT and at least 10' up on the skiers left wall!
travelin_light


Joined: 23 Nov 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:36 pm GMT  Quote
 
Well you can climb it can't ya Chief? Have to take what you can get.
physics


Joined: 22 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:52 pm GMT  Quote
 
The Chief wrote:
You call this, the Royce/Feather Col, in????

By "in" I mean "ice" (I thought this was pretty well implied). I think most CA climbers understand most the ice couloirs are going to be either thin or partially melted out this year just because of the low snow winter. The climb above was never claimed to be "full length" and this fact is obviously demonstrated by the picture. glad you picked up on that.
The Chief


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 11691

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 9:57 pm GMT  Quote
 
physics wrote:
The Chief wrote:
You call this, the Royce/Feather Col, in????

By "in" I mean "ice" (I thought this was pretty well implied). I think most CA climbers understand most the ice couloirs are going to be either thin or partially melted out this year just because of the low snow winter. The climb above was never claimed to be "full length" and this fact is obviously demonstrated by the picture. glad you picked up on that.


Be careful with the word... "IN". Around here,
where all these couloirs exist, the definition
of the word "IN" means....this,

Instead of this, Wink
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