Tahquitz- The Uneventful

[Blair]

Anybody climbed this thing? Looking for more info on it than whats said in the guidebook. I have some friends that have done it, but dont remember much...Thanks in advance for anyone that can give some more info on the rack, rock quality, and other stuff climbers talk about.

[Woodzy]

tell me when you going to climb it again and I'll join you.

[travelin_light]

go to mountainproject.com

You will find tons of extra beta.

[asmrz]

To the right of the Larks face (the North Face) is a buttress (about 50 feet wide at its base).
At the top of the buttress, you can see two trees. One looks like an "I" and the other like a "J". The route follows the left (but inside) side of this buttress and aims for the "space" between the two trees. The start has two variations. The basic one is to follow a shallow gully that slants a bit left to the prow of the left side of the buttress. Once you get on the buttress, follow the left side all the way to the trees. Once at the ledge below the trees, climb up past the "J" tree to an obvioous wide, vertical dihedral above it. This looks much harder than it is, but it is the crux of the route. You might need a bit wider pro there (eq. to 3.5 and 4 Friend). At the top of the dihedral, make a move right, onto the face and go up to the top.
Take set of SLCDs and set of wires, 10 single slings. 50 m rope is ok. E-mail me if you need more info.

[Blair]

Thanks guys...

[Guyzo]

Blair...the climbing is pretty uneventful.

[Blair]

I figured...
Some say its kinda fun.
In all honesty, after doing my first Lead @ Tahquitz ( The Trough ) I figured this would be the next logical step...U tell me.
I have had some close friends that have done it say what U said, and then other trustworthy sources say the opposite.
We will see...

[Guyzo]

Jenson's Jaunt is a good one. Angels Fright another. On the south face the Left Ski track is really fun. Don't forget Suicide across the way. Graham Crackers is one of the best ez, moderate leads around and you get two pitches of fun. And when you think your ready go do Surprise. Have fun.

[fatdad]

Lots of other good options. Fingertip Traverse (5.3) is really fun. Back in the day when I actually climbed hard, I would still run up and solo it just because it's so enjoyable. Other good options: Angel's Fright (5.4), White Maiden's Walkaway (5.1-5.4). The Larks are supposed to be OK. Fool's Rush (5.6 I think) isn't as good as some of the above, but probably as good as the Trough. Plus the routes that Guyzo mentioned.

In light of all your choices above, I wouldn't bother with the Uneventful. That portion of the N. Face can have some loose rock and route finding issues. It's kind of an obscure route for a reason.

[tiogap]

The Larks are good climbs. The route finding on Hard Lark can get tricky.

[Deb]

[Dave Daly]

If it wasn't for the "tree maze" for the first pitch of White Maidens, it would be a decent route. Hate to admit a hidden desire but I sure wish I had a saw and some spare time! Sorry folks....that thought has now faded.

The best part of that route is the finishing "optional" pitch (5.7)....fun hand jams before topping out.

Another great moderate is 'El Whampo' (5.7). The second pitch is a classic lesson in hands jams! BEAUTIFUL!!

And fatdad....the route to climb cautiously on is 'Sahara Terror' (5.7) on pitch 4. Large loose block!

[x15x15]

[fatdad]

[Dave Daly]

Deb, Blair, Aaron and myself went out this weekend and did some climbing on Taquitz. Aaron and I paired up to do 'North Buttress' (5.7) and Deb and Blair did 'The Uneventful' (5.5). Interestingly enough, both of our parties ran into stiffer climbing higher up. Our (Aaron and I) "mystery" pitch came on Pitch #4 (well, "our" Pitch #4 since we ran the topo pitches together using a 60m rope) of N. Buttress. After coming up to the belay for the end of Pitch #3, we found ourselves on a somewhat long ledge leading toward 'The Error' (with a dead tree near the middle of that ledge). The ledge COULD connect to 'The Error', if one wanted to traverse it. Anyway, our position put us under a right facing corner system, which was not in agreement with the topo (which showed the original Pitch #5 leading to the "J" tree, the start of Pitch #6 for 'The Uneventful' in the form of a crack through a couple of overlaps.....rating the pitch as 5.0). I lead this right facing corner to a roof but can be turned to the right and continue up a steeper section of the corner. Once at the steeper section, the corner closes up to a seam (no pro for at least 15'). You either have the choice to continue up this section (which was slick as snot!) or go left out onto a very exposed arete with decent pro options (thin gear.....used a #4 nut). I overcame that section by stepping up onto the arete until I could get back to the corner. After the corner, you can continue up more steep climbing, passing two more overlaps before joining in with the last 15' of 'The Error', prior to the "I" tree. After my partner and I eyeballed the topo over and over, we both agreed that this section is NOT identifyed on the topo and we had done something entirely different. After comparing it to other sections of Taquitz routes (the upper crux 5.8 of 'The Long Climb', the corner moves of Traitor Horn, and the corner first pitch of 'Fingertrip' (as shown as the last 15' of Fingertrip's first pitch....the 5.8 option), we felt that section was comparable. Don't have the resources to scan and copy the Falcon guide topo of North Buttress to post and highlight where we went. But I feel certain we were not on anything 5.7 in that section.

BTW, the pitch above the "J" tree on 'The Uneventful' (which we linked with for obvious reasons), was most outstanding!! Some of the best 5.5/5.6 climbing on the north side, IMO! Nice lead, Aaron!