by Pallando » Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:46 pm
by mattyj » Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:58 pm
by Pallando » Thu Apr 01, 2010 12:06 am
by mconnell » Thu Apr 01, 2010 2:14 am
Pallando wrote: I suppose a T-slot would be a better anchor in this case, but how can one person set up a T-slot while in self arrest?
by Steve Larson » Thu Apr 01, 2010 2:38 am
mconnell wrote:Pallando wrote: I suppose a T-slot would be a better anchor in this case, but how can one person set up a T-slot while in self arrest?
Holding a person (after they are caught) is pretty easy. In practice situations, I have almost always been able to use both hands for building an anchor while using just my feet to keep from sliding. The only time I didn't feel solid enough to use both hands was on clear ice, where I was using a screw for the anchor.
Pallando wrote:And to reiterate, these would be 18in so they could fit onto some kind of thigh holster for easy access.
by mattyj » Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:34 pm
Pallando wrote:I wasn't aware "standing" pickets were so shaky. Is this even under pre-dawn summer conditions? I suppose a T-slot would be a better anchor in this case, but how can one person set up a T-slot while in self arrest?
by elliottwill » Fri Apr 02, 2010 4:50 am
by Snowball » Fri Apr 02, 2010 6:36 am
Pallando wrote:Does anyone know how well (as compared to one 24in picket) two equalized 18in snow pickets would be?
I know it sounds shifty, and there will always be the question of, "Why risk it/go cheap with anchors?" but if it's as solid as one 24in picket, would it not make anchoring quicker?
Considering you self arrest after your partner falls into a crevasse. It's just you holding him/her, and you have to hold self arrest while also building an anchor. How difficult is it to reach a 24in picket in your pack with one hand and pound it into the snow with one hand? I feel like if one had two 18in pickets on their thigh with a sliding X cordelette already ready to go, this would be much easier to grab and pound into the snow.
Is this too sketch to try out, or am I stuck with awkward anchor placement?
by Pallando » Fri Apr 02, 2010 7:52 pm
If snow conditions are just right, you can get a top-clip picket to fail before the snow around it does. But most of the time, they're pretty weak. From your original post, I gathered that you wanted to use an 18" picket because it was easier to pound in. If instead you're planning on bringing it because it's easier to have in a quickdraw fashion, I don't know that there's anything wrong with that per se, but I concur with other posters that having them on the side of your pack makes them easy to get. If I'm on a glacier I don't clip them in; I just drop them in the water bottle pocket and under the compression straps. Reach back with the hand on that side, grab a short loop of webbing I've put through the top hole, and out they come.
Regarding picket strength in general, you should take a look at the following document:
by Augie Medina » Fri Apr 02, 2010 8:54 pm
Snowball wrote:in my case in 2005, Jerry and i practiced this over and over on the snow adjacent to the Winthrop Glacier. By the end of the day we had both test each other and we were all wet but totally confident of what to do. Jerry was from NYC, so he really needed the practice. I was totally glad that he was happy to do it. The following day, i took a 25ft crevasse fall on a hidden crevasse on the Emmons Glacier. Jerry saw me disappear into the glacier and jumped into self arrest. He set an anchor as described above and saved my life... AND his too! He was after all still tied-in to me.
by Snowball » Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:35 am
Pallando wrote:snowball, you said you didn't think an equalized anchor is feasible from self arrest? It seems if your two pickets already have a cordelette with a sliding x in it it wouldn't be too hard... thoughts?
by Snowball » Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:44 am
Mountain Impulse wrote:
I assume you could also add the step of setting up a Z pulley if the fallen climber couldn't ascend on his own?
by brandon » Mon Apr 05, 2010 10:04 pm
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