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1st time in Evolutions

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1st time in Evolutions

Postby myles » Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:20 pm

Going to the Evolutions for four days in the first week of August. Checking out my maps and Secor, but hoping some folks who've spent time there might have some suggestions. My partner doesn't climb, so I'll be sticking to third class. Any suggestions that might be off the beaten track? Thanks!
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby thegib » Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:26 pm

If you camp immediately east or west of Mt Spenser you'll be in a fabulous spot. Hi up, 11400-11500', but glorious meadows, streams and falls, and views. And you're only a mile or two north of the JMT. Then get your partner up Spenser, it's short but has a good view of Darwin and an oldish register.
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:32 pm

Spencer is ok. Register is cool. But you really have to experience the view of Darwin/Mendel from Lamarck col. Easy walk to the top of Lamarck. North Face of Darwin is a classic snow climb/3rd class route up it. Great summit block.
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby Princess Buttercup » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:40 pm

Starr's route up Goddard, the tallest thing around.

Class 2 to Mt. Warlow from Muir Pass.

The slog up Black Giant.

Incredible views from all.

My fave place in the Sierra so far.
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby myles » Mon Jun 18, 2012 9:53 pm

Thanks for those fast responses ... My partner and I are going to the NC mountains this weekend, we'll be making some tentative plans then so I'll be checking out all the above.

Who knows, maybe we'll run across some of you. :)
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby sharperblue » Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:47 pm

Most likely, you'll have your choice between two primary drainages/basins for the Evolutions if approaching from the East; the cirque above Lake Sabrina, dominated by Mount Haeckel (a spectacular summit and climb, but requires basic axe & crampon skills), and Darwin Basin via Lamarck Col (Dominated by Mount Darwin; a Class 3 scramble/non-technical route exists from the East but it's easy to miss - research the route carefully if you opt for this summit) The former will get you into the good stuff right out of the parking lot, but it will have the crowds. The trek up to and over Lamarck Col is pretty boring, but the other side is stunning and will be much more sparsely populated.

Excellent reports and pictures of both drainages here:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=688490
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=701712
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby myles » Tue Jun 19, 2012 1:59 pm

Lamarck might be the way, as we like solitude when we can get it. The way out of Lake Sabrina looked gorgeous from the trail head, but I have heard that the area can be crowded. Darwin's been on my list a while, too. Thanks for those reports.
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby Sierra Ledge Rat » Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:45 pm

Why not dive right into the Evolution over Wallace Col? Drops you right into the heart of the Evolution. The east side of Wallace col is unclimable scree, best to return over a different pass like Echo Col or Lamarck Col.

August... EEK! Be prepared for a talus slog. No snow to make the ride smoother in August!

Wallace Col drops you right into the Evolution here:
Image

Huxley
Image

Below Huxley
Image

East side of Lamarck Col (class 2)
Image

East side of Echo Col (arrow) (class 3)
Image

East side of Echo Col (carrow) (class 3)
Image

West side of Echo Col (arrow) (class 3)
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West side of Echo Col (class 3)
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby myles » Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:44 pm

Great shots, Ledge Rat, thanks. My partner this year is a backpacking/hiking machine, but I have a hard time getting him on anything past class 2.
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby myles » Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:35 pm

I pulled Secor back out and see Haeckel-Wallace col. Is that what you referred to above. If so I think that's doable for my buddy (He's been over Isosceles Pass). I can always say "Hey, the book says 'class 2.'"
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby Sierra Ledge Rat » Wed Jun 20, 2012 1:06 pm

Also look at Haekel Col, but it may be class 3.

If you want class 2, you'll need to walk out over Lamarck Col.

Decending Wallace Col west-to-east is the only place I've ever "glissaded" down scree. The entire scree slope starts rolling and you can "surf" scree to the bottom.

Wallace Col is an impossible climb going east to west. One step up, slide two steps back.
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Re: 1st time in Evolutions

Postby sharperblue » Wed Jun 20, 2012 5:31 pm

Link to a pic of Darwin's Class 3 ascent/descent (I got burned a bit taking the wrong chute down following cairns when coming off the North Face Couloir, so just trying to help others avoid the same mistake - it's easy to avoid when going UP, not so much when coming down and looking for it from the other side! The wrong chute isn't that big a deal, but it would likely scare the pants off of someone who's not been off Class 3. I found that I had to drop up and down the West face quite a bit to keep the ridge to Class 3-4 below the ridge when coming off, btw) This would be your approach from Lamarck Col

Here:
http://www.summitpost.org/mount-darwin-class3/796255
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