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A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Shasta

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A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Shasta

Postby clmbr » Sun Sep 23, 2012 7:11 am

I am this climber and here is the link to my report what really happened and how I got out.

Falling in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Mt Shasta
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby Jesus Malverde » Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:46 pm

Clmbr,
Very glad you are still with us in this world. We seem to get a little "wiser" after those crevasse "experiences" huh? Glad to see that you are not growing tired of that mountain. I hope you see many, many more Shasta summits.
ten cuidado
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby AlexRts » Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:50 pm

What were you doing jumping around crevasses both unroped and without a partner nearby?

:?
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby clmbr » Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:48 pm

Jesus Malverde wrote:Clmbr,
Very glad you are still with us in this world. We seem to get a little "wiser" after those crevasse "experiences" huh? Glad to see that you are not growing tired of that mountain. I hope you see many, many more Shasta summits.
ten cuidado

Thanks, and I hope too.

AlexRts wrote:What were you doing jumping around crevasses both unroped and without a partner nearby?

:?

Practicing. :oops:
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby Skateboards2Scrapers » Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:07 pm

COOL STORY BRAH
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:47 pm

clmbr wrote:
AlexRts wrote:What were you doing jumping around crevasses both unroped and without a partner nearby?

:?

Practicing. :oops:


What sort of a glacier travel skill were you practicing ALONE on a broken up glacier while jumping over a large opened crevasse? Sounds like something extremely careless, again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlaBehEZ ... u.be&t=47s
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby clmbr » Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:25 pm

Vitaliy M. wrote:
clmbr wrote:
AlexRts wrote:What were you doing jumping around crevasses both unroped and without a partner nearby?

:?

Practicing. :oops:


What sort of a glacier travel skill were you practicing ALONE on a broken up glacier while jumping over a large opened crevasse? Sounds like something extremely careless, again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlaBehEZ ... u.be&t=47s

Vitaliy, as usually you have a good sense of humor. I knew someone would bring up the Vertical Limit scene. Hey but my jump was not even close to that :lol:

But seriously this jump did not look difficult at all. This was a hard ice and my tool most likely did not go deep enough or the ice broke or perhaps my ice tool spike angle changed as I was pulling up my body. It does not matter. What matter is I did not see this coming, had no backup plan in case something goes wrong, did not even consider using the other ax, was overconfident. And I am ashamed of that. This was indeed a dangerous move.

I’ve been traversing more complex and more broken up glaciers and climbing "reasonably" steep slopes alone for years and need to practice various techniques in various conditions in "reasonably safe" environment because some other times there is no time for practicing, just Implementation. You climb much worse stuff. Being roped not necessarily makes you safe but that is a very vast and controversial topic, with various opinions.
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:06 pm

-


for your foolishness, watch this video 9 times while standing on your head

then go to bed without your milk and cookies, on October 9, 2012


vvv





namaste!

-
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby AlexRts » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:20 pm

clmbr wrote:Being roped not necessarily makes you safe but that is a very vast and controversial topic, with various opinions.

Being roped in certain situations doesn't necessarily make you safer, but in the situation you were putting yourself in it certainly would have been safer. Do you not see that? You were not only exposing yourself by jumping crevasses alone but local SAR crews too.
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:33 pm

clmbr wrote:What matter is I did not see this coming, had no backup plan in case something goes wrong, did not even consider using the other ax, was overconfident. And I am ashamed of that. This was indeed a dangerous move.

I’ve been traversing more complex and more broken up glaciers and climbing "reasonably" steep slopes alone for years and need to practice various techniques in various conditions in "reasonably safe" environment because some other times there is no time for practicing, just Implementation. You climb much worse stuff. Being roped not necessarily makes you safe but that is a very vast and controversial topic, with various opinions.


Crossing a glacier roped to one-two other competent partners never been controversial- it is a norm. Would for sure help you if you broke/severely injured yourself in this fall. Even if they did not get you out (even though competent partners should have no problem with that) they would be able to get help. It is a good thing you admit to being overconfident and being ashamed of that though though.

To be honest, when I first saw your posts on the Bay Area Mountaineering group looking for partners to climb Shasta/Whitney in a storms I was a bit shocked. I thought it was a troll post at first. Who in their right mind would want to drive from Bay Area and climb into a winter storm. Aside from unsafe, it just does not sound fun. I hope this current event will be a lesson for you to avoid getting yourself into dangerous situations on purpose. Even though Shasta and Whitney are CA 14ers, they still kill multiple people every year. As climbers we should be READY to deal with situations, but we should NOT put ourselves in these dangerous situations on purpose. Of course it is your choice, and you can continue hiking glaciers solo/getting on peaks in winter storms, but I do not think it is a good idea.
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby mrchad9 » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:40 pm

PellucidWombat has a good deal of experience with the consequences of taking on additional risk in the Cascades. Would be good to get his perspective on this.
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:53 pm

-

when we were kids we used to "practice" jumping back and forth across some railroad tracks with a diesel locomotive coming full-bore straight at us, just 100s of yards away

then we got to doing the same thing but with slippery Crisco rubbed on the soles of our tennies


-
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby Skateboards2Scrapers » Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:41 pm

WHY DIDN'T YOU BRING YOUR GOPRO BRAH? Gonna go back up and do a re-enaction with multiple frames of view, the go-pro, and bad narration next?
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby Skateboards2Scrapers » Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:03 pm

mrchad9 wrote:PellucidWombat has a good deal of experience with the consequences of taking on additional risk in the Cascades. Would be good to get his perspective on this.

agreed!!! want wombat input! the people demand wombat input
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Re: A solo climber falls in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Sh

Postby clmbr » Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:09 pm

Skateboards2Scrapers wrote:WHY DIDN'T YOU BRING YOUR GOPRO BRAH? Gonna go back up and do a re-enaction with multiple frames of view, the go-pro, and bad narration next?

I returned it because mine was overexposing on snow. And also this crevasse in GoPro would look like a giant and Vitaliy already compared my jump with the Hollywood one from Vertical Limit. I don’t think he would be able to find the proper movie to match GoPro. :)
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